Do as Beeutey suggests I left mine with only one side bolted up and when it got hot I got blue sparks all over the leads at night, could not figure out why then I put another bolt in and it fixed it
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Do as Beeutey suggests I left mine with only one side bolted up and when it got hot I got blue sparks all over the leads at night, could not figure out why then I put another bolt in and it fixed it
Sent from my GT-I9305 using AULRO mobile app
Well attempted the conversion today :p
NO JOY lol. Not sure what is up.
Basically no spark.
All i did was change the module and kept the existing coil i have.
Any ideas what i may have done wrong?
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/da...rsion-haha.jpg
Sorry its so messy. I tried to space it out so the pic made it easy. Not sure that worked.
What is the "black wire to coil negative" from? If it's the shielding wire off the dissy wiring all you'll achieve is a dead short to ground on the negative coil side which will burn out the coil ASAP. Black is usually earth and should go to a body connection NOT coil negative.Quote:
Originally Posted by DAMINK
Anyway, the checklist should cover everything else:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ml#post2085761
Was able to get it going. Yep the black wire was wrong mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
So luckily the coil is not totally dead. Will replace but car is running.
Thankyou bee utey :)
Your coil should be fine unless you left the ignition long enough to overheat the coil. Those coils usually emit a stream of stinking hot oil out of their vent if they are shorted long enough, that's a safety feature, rather than blowing up. Up to a minute or two normally doesn't kill them.
I fitted the bosch BIM024 (Brand new Genuine Bosch) to my 93 RRC on the weekend replacing the Lucas system which seemed to be operating OK. Now there is a huge hesitation/surge (like running out of fuel) when between 1800 and 2000 RPM when transitioning between light pedal and 1/4 pedal while driving on Petrol. Petrol was fine before the mod and when on LPG there is no problems. On both fuels it does feel better to drive.
When I did this mod I was out of LPG so as soon as I hit the road the hesitation/surge was apparent. I drove to the servo and filled the LPG tank and switched to LPG. The hesitation/surge disappeared until I was on petrol again.
As the hesitation/surge is RPM based I thought that the BIM024 module might be getting some RFI induced from the alternator which was stopping the ECU from fueling the engine properly. I re routed the wires from the Dizzy to the BIM024 module and it has improved a lot, but the hesitation/surge is still there. When the engine is cold the hesitation/surge is almost not noticeable, but once up to temp it is back. It seems that under higher fuelling (cold engine, higher RPM or more throttle) the hesitation disappears.
Normally I would just think that the problem was ECU or fuel system, but since the problem occurred after the mod and re routing the dizzy wires improved things I think it must be the mod.
Is there a particular location that is recommended to route the dizzy pick up wires? Should the dizzy pick up wires be of a braided shield type? Any other suggestions?
Thanks for any help. :)
When I do this conversion I usually cable tie the pickup wires (plain twin core) to the top radiator hose. However, as a first check, undo the vacuum hose off the distributor and test drive. If this fixes the problem then you may have the pickup wires connected the wrong way round, advancing the timing beyond the distributor cap's ability to connect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fity
Thanks bee utey, I more or less have the wires (2 core with a black sheave) over the top of the radiator hose as far away from the alternator as they can be. I will try taking off the vacuum hose and test driving. I triple checked the wiring as per your instructions before turning on the ignition, but anything is possible. :) If the wires are backwards would it still run ok on LPG?
Should the vacuum hose be disconnected when setting the timing?
V8 EFI engines should all have the vacuum ported off the top of the plenum chamber and have no distributor vacuum at idle. It's always a good check of functioning vac advance to remove the line while holding the revs above idle, observing the pointer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fity
Not sure why your LPG is running better than petrol, I suggest you check that the MAF remains powered on while on LPG. The brown/orange stripe wire at the MAF should be live regardless of fuel selection otherwise it'll read a fault and run on limp home settings.
Thanks again bee utey. The vac advance is connected to the plenum.
I have battery volts at the MAF brown/orange wire.
Could the air gap in the reluctor cause the problem? I had trouble setting it when doing the mod as I only had steel feeler gauges.