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Thread: Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS View Post
    Bee utey , that dizy module amp swap , looks like the HEI Big Cap setup on one of WB statesman / VK or VL Bosch HEI arrangement .Got a couple of those Big cap dizzy left complete in the shed (just usually change over to the Fraud Cap and Button) All male terminals standard so use HEC716 or HEC718 T-coils , Still , the T-coils look nice but dont perform as well as the Oil-filled/coiled jobs So Ive a couple of 1988 EFI STd dizzies with amps on the side as well.thought they were playing up so I fitted an 1985 RRC carb dizzy with a crane xr700 trigger . Worked well for a few thousand till it burnt out the coil ! forgot to change from low-resistance coil (.45) to (MEC716) to say a GT40 (3.1K) (Not the R) Those aftermarket "optical " jobs really act as a "Points replacement system" so Points type coil is required .
    Fully agree with you there. Before I developed this conversion I fitted quite a few Crane XR700 kits. The coils were usually replaced with GT40R coils, retaining the ballast resistor. This worked so long as the XR700 was wired to ign positive before the ballast. Using the GT40 is perfectly legit without a ballast.

    This morning I did a conversion which I started ages ago. Using a 351C points dissy I converted its internals to the HEI pick-up (same as the Holden VK/WB ) which required some delicate machining to accurately locate the centre wheel. This all got stuffed into a F350 owned by the local plumber, using a coil and module set like the one I pictured. I am so glad the cap and rotor can be swapped about on all the V8 Bosch dissy's so long as you know what comes off what.

  2. #12
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    Bee Utey: Can you suggest what type of new coil I should purchase for this setup? I have the bim024 module and feel rich enough to go and buy a good coil. I Should have the beast going on the weekend. Thought I had issues with the carb but now it seems to be a weak spark issue at WOT.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by coops71 View Post
    Bee Utey: Can you suggest what type of new coil I should purchase for this setup? I have the bim024 module and feel rich enough to go and buy a good coil. I Should have the beast going on the weekend. Thought I had issues with the carb but now it seems to be a weak spark issue at WOT.
    The original Ford 6 HEI ignition uses a female post type transformer coil Bosch part number MEC717 which is a good match for the bim024. The V8 uses the MEC723A which also works well on the bim024. Some correspondents mention using a BIC290 cylinder type coil but the one I bought is a no-name-brand in a Bosch box. I have yet to try it in a vehicle.

  4. #14
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    OK - Ive got the module in and had the car running(once I got the dizzy back around 180degs the right way). Starts easier, runs smoother. I decided to pull my old disco dizzy apart and didn't count on messing up the air gap for the magnetic pickup. Anyway I set it to around 10 thou. Maybe even closer. Drove around for 10km. Thing starts to run like crap below 1000-1500 rpm. Tacho goes erratic. Runs terrific on lpg above these revs. Still runs like crap at WOT.
    Next morning take out old coil and put in neglected disco coil(out in rain for two years). Thing now pulls like crazy at WOT on LPG. Awesome. Still has bad idle and tacho wierdness at low revs. Is it possible I got the pickup too close and made some iron filings that are messing up the signal from the pickup or could both coils be stuffed? Hoping not a new module has played up. Leads are all good and new plugs.

  5. #15
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    It sounds like you have the tacho connected to the coil, unlike the standard Rover type connected to the alternator. I have just tested my spare dissy I use for testing these conversions and measured 7 thou air gap. So some other possibilities are:
    1. you have wired the pick-up wires to the amp the wrong way around. Please see if you have wired the pick-up as per the pics early on this thread. If you reverse the wires the triggering will happen as the pick-up's spiky bit travels away from the point of closest contact. This "falling" pulse is much weaker at low RPM and will cause erratic firing with the rotor away from the dissy posts.
    2. You have loose connectors. I cannot emphasise enough how important tight and clean terminals at the coil and amp are for proper function. ANY of the power terminals being loose WILL cause erratic running. I am still amazed at people who use cheap open crimps on these terminals. Only fully insulated terminals should be used. I get a pair of pliers and carefully close each crimp to ensure maximum grip. Most of my problems during development have been due to poor terminals. Bitter experience makes me harp on this.
    3. Have you mounted the amp on a heat sink with the proper heatsinking paste? The amp earth is via its mounting screws so a dirty earth path is fatal to good reliable spark. The screw holes and area adjacent to the screws should be free of paste. The heatsink should be firmly bolted to the body somewhere with good metal contact. Otherwise a new earth wire to the battery or engine earth is needed. The Ford set-up mentioned below was bolted to a plastic inner guard with a fattish earth wire to the battery and works well.

  6. #16
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    Thanks Bee utey for your patience and your detailed response. The problem was the dizzy. I had swapped the gear back and forth between dizzys to accommodate the oil pump drive. I had previously tried to fit the spacer back on the shaft just above the gear but it would not fit. I assumed it must not be part of the non pump drive type dizzy as it made the shaft very hard to turn so I left it out. Also, I could only find one spacer between two dizzys so it seemed to make sense. Tonight, after removing the distributor to get a good look at the air gap there was ample room to put the spacer in on the shaft. I don't know where it came from, but I put the spacer back in. Erratic tacho gone One other point: Does the alternator tacho wire give the same pulse as the coil? Thanks once again for your help. Sorry if Ive hijacked this thread somewhat.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by coops71 View Post
    Does the alternator tacho wire give the same pulse as the coil?
    I don't think so, the coil gives 4 pulses per crank rev, the alternator gives 6 pulses per alt rev, times the pulley ratio, more likely to be 15-25 pulses per crank rev.

  8. #18
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    Thanks for your knowledge bee utey. it was well illustrated enough to give me courage to do the conversion. thanks.
    i ended up using a generic module for $46 and coil $26 from veals.
    cheers!

  9. #19
    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    bee utey, how much to do this if i just turn up?

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85 county View Post
    bee utey, how much to do this if i just turn up?
    PM sent...

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