Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024

Guys,

I have made the install and left the condenser in place...makes no difference to leave it off.
Timing set at 6 degrees with vacuum off.
A noticable increase in low down power and will update on changes to economy as we go.

Problem I cannot work out.
I get unstable engine revs from 2000rpm onwards in the driveway, including banging in the exhaust. (too much advance?)
This is harder to notice while on the road.
I get stuttering and the occaisional backfire while coasting along.

I am guessing the vacuum advance has something to contribute to the problem here. Seems too sensitive.
Motor seems fine in deceleration and under load.

Any suggestions?

Cliffy

Quote:

---

Problem I cannot work out.
I get unstable engine revs from 2000rpm onwards in the driveway, including banging in the exhaust. (too much advance?)
This is harder to notice while on the road.
I get stuttering and the occaisional backfire while coasting along.

---

Nothing to do with advance as 6 degrees is hardly advanced,and I would recommend trying 9 degrees for economy.

My first thought is that your TPS may be worn out, as they usually wear out just off idle. This is usually especially noticable as you "tip in" ie resume cruise after having foot off down a hill.
Regards Philip A

Would that be with the genuine BOSCH module ? ie, BOSCH printed all over it and made in Oz...

Or the $35 one on ebay.

The advert reads in part....


"Ford, Holden, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Toyota

This module replaces Bosch numbers BIM024, 9 222 067 021

This is the very commonly used Bosch type module"



Does'nt EXACTLY say that it IS the 'genuine' Aussie-made BOSCH unit....

In the world of electronics, as I used to know it, a brand new part was regarded as unreliable till it had done over a thousand hours, after which it was regarded as immortal. Or, most active components fail early on in their life rather than later, the exceptions to this ROT are heat-related where adequate cooling is an issue. - eg, resin encapsulated ECU/Ign ignitors like the old Valiant Lean Burn computer mounted on the air filter. If a leaf or three got in and blocked the cooling air by-pass.......

Which is another way of saying that the wreckers Ign module is perfectly acceptable to use.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cliffordbharvey

Guys,

I have made the install and left the condenser in place...makes no difference to leave it off.
Timing set at 6 degrees with vacuum off.
A noticable increase in low down power and will update on changes to economy as we go.

Problem I cannot work out.
I get unstable engine revs from 2000rpm onwards in the driveway, including banging in the exhaust. (too much advance?)
This is harder to notice while on the road.
I get stuttering and the occaisional backfire while coasting along.

I am guessing the vacuum advance has something to contribute to the problem here. Seems too sensitive.
Motor seems fine in deceleration and under load.

Any suggestions?

Cliffy

---

You need to reverse the two wires from the dissy pickup. Retime the dissy to suit. The vac advance is simply causing the rotor button to be in between two cylinders on the cap. Check the pictures I put on this thread to determine which way the wires go on.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by superquag

Would that be with the genuine BOSCH module ? ie, BOSCH printed all over it and made in Oz...

Or the $35 one on ebay.

The advert reads in part....


"Ford, Holden, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Toyota

This module replaces Bosch numbers BIM024, 9 222 067 021

This is the very commonly used Bosch type module"



Does'nt EXACTLY say that it IS the 'genuine' Aussie-made BOSCH unit....

In the world of electronics, as I used to know it, a brand new part was regarded as unreliable till it had done over a thousand hours, after which it was regarded as immortal. Or, most active components fail early on in their life rather than later, the exceptions to this ROT are heat-related where adequate cooling is an issue. - eg, resin encapsulated ECU/Ign ignitors like the old Valiant Lean Burn computer mounted on the air filter. If a leaf or three got in and blocked the cooling air by-pass.......

Which is another way of saying that the wreckers Ign module is perfectly acceptable to use.

---

Bursons currently have the BIM024 at $53 trade. I bought one last week.

I am never tempted to buy aftermarket, who knows what will happen when Bosch stops selling them, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Great to get a "pre-tested" genuine one from the wreckers though...

Guys,

Thank you.

TPS...was working beautfuly before i made the convert..unlikely to be this.
The idle was rough and timing out when I restarted after conversion.
Does it matter that I used 20amp wire linked to the existing loom?
The module and coil came directly from autob**n at
$59 coil
$54 module.
They had beetr be genuine...insert concern over new module failure

1. I will swap the terminals and retune. Hoping the difference is 10-15 degrees.
2. on a weekday I'll go by nice terminal ends. Only used the k-mart version (backyard BS)

Guys, I realy apreciate this.
Cliff

Bee Utey wins the bottle of beer!
Plain logic is was...just could not see the way due to worry.

Runs perfectly again.
I will set it at the plain 6 degree top get direct comparison between the bosch coil settup and the original lucas jobby.

Guy, taking the kids for a bit of playing in the forest.
Thanks.
Cliff

AS you may have guessed, the evilBay ign module is'nt the genuine article, however the seller states:-

"They are new aftermarket sold 100's never a problem comes with the heat paste"

Personally, I'd go for genuine or s/h "Long term Pre-Tested..."

Finicky James in Gosnells

just reading as having issues with 93 3.5 disco stared with earth and battery problems.

the distributor has been replaced before i bought it with new unit-the coil looks new.i was going to swap the dist from my 89 hiline but noticed the module on the side of the dist.the issue if fuel related tends to look like afm but the hiline was parked because of untrustworthy flapper unit.but i add to this ignition system thread.

the early rover V8 distributor-we been using in P76 for years with valiant and bosch sigma modules.recently we use JB camira modules as they have good heat sink and mounting bracket .the air gap has to be reduced as its not as good as the bosch.

dont know what the BIM number is but i was told its the better for the system.my mate prefers them when suppling autronics.

I ve a history with GM/nissan and use the bluebird or the VH/VK coils.
the falcon coil seams to die quickly and ive not had issues with old GT40R[P76] but the resistamce is wrong.had plenty of cheep VL/skyline coil as long as they dont get hot.a friend had starting issues with a msd coil and found in the box after years warning only use spiral wound leads.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Davehoos

just reading as having issues with 93 3.5 disco stared with earth and battery problems.

the distributor has been replaced before i bought it with new unit-the coil looks new.i was going to swap the dist from my 89 hiline but noticed the module on the side of the dist.the issue if fuel related tends to look like afm but the hiline was parked because of untrustworthy flapper unit.but i add to this ignition system thread.

the early rover V8 distributor-we been using in P76 for years with valiant and bosch sigma modules.recently we use JB camira modules as they have good heat sink and mounting bracket .the air gap has to be reduced as its not as good as the bosch.

dont know what the BIM number is but i was told its the better for the system.my mate prefers them when suppling autronics.

I ve a history with GM/nissan and use the bluebird or the VH/VK coils.
the falcon coil seams to die quickly and ive not had issues with old GT40R[P76] but the resistamce is wrong.had plenty of cheep VL/skyline coil as long as they dont get hot.a friend had starting issues with a msd coil and found in the box after years warning only use spiral wound leads.

---

There sure are plenty of parts you can mix and match, I like to use coils which were originally mounted away from the engine because lotsa heat tends to kill them. The Camira one is particularly my favourite as the engines in those rarely last long enough to kill a coil, as well as the neat heat sink. I haven't used the original Camira modules simply because I prefer the simple 4 wire system of the 024.

I've built plenty of P76 dissies mainly using Valiant V8 guts, although I once made a 8 cyl rotor using two Sigma 4 cyl ones carefully machined and nested together. Worked a treat.