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Thread: Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024

  1. #1
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    Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024

    Well, I finally remembered to get the camera out when I did another Bosch ignition amplifier conversion.

    The vehicle here is a '75 RR 3.5 with a distributor from an '87 RR EFI.

    The first picture shows the ignition module close up: terminal 3 is 4.8mm wide, it is connected to a new red wire from the distributor. Terminal 7 is connected to a new black wire from the distributor. Terminal 15 goes to the coil +ve. Terminal 16 goes to the coil -ve.

    The next picture shows a HEI coil and heatsink set from an early Camira. It has a module that I haven't bothered investigating, so I replace it with the Bosch BIM024 module. To do that you remove the two plastic locator pins off the module, use plenty of the heatsink paste, and assemble.

    The next picture shows the coil and module mounted, ignition positive to the coil positive, and I left the original negative connector for the (future) tacho. This is the connection the EFI engine uses to drive the computer.

    The last picture shows the distributor with the new red and black wires connected to where the module usually goes. I made two male 3.2mm crimp terminals by cutting 6.3mm ones with sharp tin snips, I could have done it neater but with a healthy dob of silicone it will hold there just fine. When I do a later (3.9) distributor, the existing cable that goes to the original amplifier (blue and red wires?) can have two new female crimps fitted at the coil end, and applied to the new amplifier.

    What happens if you get the polarity of the two wires reversed? Then the amplifier will trigger (roughly, from the falling pulse) and your ignition timing will be out by a large amount, if it runs at all. When connected the right way around, the timing should occur near where the magnetic pick-up meets the star rotor on the distributor shaft. The air gap here is critical, it should be adjusted to the smallest gap allowing free rotation, otherwise low speed operation might be somewhat erratic.

    I have done about 30 of these conversions, none have come back to haunt me. The coil and module can be sourced from older car wreckers, I usually pay around $10 each. The module was fitted to large numbers of Australian production cars around the early 80's, before EFI became popular. So if you know where there is a VH commodore distributor or similar, the module lives under the tin cover on one side of the dissy.

    Cheers and happy rovering.
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  2. #2
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    What came first - the faulty ignition module or the faulty coil?

    Well, I think in my case the wrong coil killed the ignition module, leading to a cascade of autoelectrical mayhem.

    Thanks to bee utey for his informed advice and for sending me one of his modified ignition systems.

    I had to remove the dizzy to remove the old ignition module, so my advice is be careful lining it back up. Remember it rotates 30degrees as you slot it through the drive gear, so mark the spot where the rotor button is before you remove it, then, as you slide it back in, start with the rotor button 30 degrees earlier (say it's in the 6 o'clock position when you remove it, slide it in with the button in the 5 o'clock position, so that it ends up in the 6 o'clock posi). My initial misalignment led to some timing issues, but bee utey was able to
    talk them over on the phone and the system is now running well.

    Having an easy to repair / replace Bosch system under the bonnet also makes future repairs less likely, less costly, and less time consuming.

  3. #3
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    And finally, a pic of the late D1 with the remote coil module/amp. The dissy harness terminates at the new module/amp, black wire earthed to module earth screw, blue wire to top terminal (terminal 3) red wire to 2nd terminal (terminal 7). This conversion has been on the road for a few months, the only recent problem was traced to the only non-modified terminal, the LR 12 volt feed wire. I replaced its crimp, hopefully that's it for now.
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  4. #4
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    Well for some time ive been trying to nut out a problem with my Fathers 96 Discovery V8I,
    At random, it would backfire or (frontfire) igniting the LPG in the plentium chamber.
    After replacing the Rotor, dizzy cap, plugs, also the leads & carefully spacing them out still had the same problem.

    So i bought a new amplifier module from the UK, fitted to the vehicle and it lasted about half a day, lost all spark.
    after a few weeks, finally got a replacment module from the seller,
    and it lasted about 20 minutes of a test drive, so it appears the coil & module were both stuffed!! Coil possibly burning out the new modules

    Next move was to fit one of bee utey's bosch conversion, which i now wish i had of done to start with, after all the $$ spent on orig type modules and other ignition parts
    Very easy to fit, vehicle starts at the touch of the key, drives very smooth, most importantly it hasn't backfired or missed a beat at all, Ive given it a hard time on & off road.
    Bee utey's bosch conversion is economical and a great way to give your ignition system a far better spark.

    Thanks bee utey for sharing your conversion with AULRO members.

    Luke

  5. #5
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    Hi Bee Utey,

    Thanks for your great information on the Bosch amplifier conversion. I've got a slightly different problem. A few years ago I upgraded my '86 Range Rover with a brand new imported 3.9 high compression engine that turns out to have been manufactured for a Morgan Plus 8. The advance curve on the standard Lucas distributor is nowhere near what the engine needs. I'm looking at replacing the amplifier with a programmable module to remap the ignition and do away with the standard advance system but I'm stuck on where to get the tacho pulse for the old Lucas L EFI ECU. It currently comes from the existing amplifier and I'm tempted to just hook it up to the negative terminal on the coil but I don't want to blow up my ECU by sending it a signal that's too high. Do you have any experience fitting the Bosch module to an old Lucas L EFI system?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrapper View Post
    Hi Bee Utey,

    Thanks for your great information on the Bosch amplifier conversion. I've got a slightly different problem. A few years ago I upgraded my '86 Range Rover with a brand new imported 3.9 high compression engine that turns out to have been manufactured for a Morgan Plus 8. The advance curve on the standard Lucas distributor is nowhere near what the engine needs. I'm looking at replacing the amplifier with a programmable module to remap the ignition and do away with the standard advance system but I'm stuck on where to get the tacho pulse for the old Lucas L EFI ECU. It currently comes from the existing amplifier and I'm tempted to just hook it up to the negative terminal on the coil but I don't want to blow up my ECU by sending it a signal that's too high. Do you have any experience fitting the Bosch module to an old Lucas L EFI system?
    If you are talking about the standard EFI on your 86 RR I did a bosch conversion to my brothers 3.5 which went for 50 000km before breaking the crank. The ECU signal came from the negative coil terminal just like the later ones. I would check where exactly your pulse wire is connected, it may be looped inside the harness with a resistor or something, I can't remember exactly. If not try a high value resistor in series, dropping its value until your pulses fire the ECU.

  7. #7
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    and to add my two bobs worth mine is going like a rocket since you changed mine

  8. #8
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    Ive also added the Bosch conversion to my 94 Discovery,
    It's now running like a clock and way more responsive, easier to start also.
    Cheers Bee utey

  9. #9
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    Thumbs up

    Bee Utey, Thanks heaps for your help and advice to set it up.

    Your module upgrade completed last night has done wonders to my Discovery 1. It is running exceptionally well on LPG now, and you can barely recognise the difference in power to petrol, if at all. It is likely driving a different car.

    The Discovery has been in my possession since late 2008 and has always had an underlying electrical problem. I wish I had stumbled on your thread 2 years ago, it could have saved me many dollars from so-called experts.

  10. #10
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    Bee utey , that dizy module amp swap , looks like the HEI Big Cap setup on one of WB statesman / VK or VL Bosch HEI arrangement .Got a couple of those Big cap dizzy left complete in the shed (just usually change over to the Fraud Cap and Button) All male terminals standard so use HEC716 or HEC718 T-coils , Still , the T-coils look nice but dont perform as well as the Oil-filled/coiled jobs So Ive a couple of 1988 EFI STd
    dizzies with amps on the side as well.thought they were playing up so I fitted an 1985 RRC carb dizzy with a crane xr700 trigger . Worked well for a few thousand till it burnt out the coil ! forgot to change from low-resistance coil (.45) to (MEC716) to say a GT40 (3.1K) (Not the R) Those aftermarket "optical " jobs really act as a "Points replacement system" so Points type coil is required .

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