Thread: she kept her motor clean and had a modified box...

just replacing my filter box with a pod filter gave me much better airflow and used less fuel.

I have done the tests recommended by Autospeed and the total restriction of a snorkle and standard barrel filter on a 92RRC is 11 inches of water to the mouth of the MAF.

This is NOTHING and seeing that I am not about to delete the MAF , then there is no need for any other filter box setup. I actually bought and modified a Commodore box before testing then decided it was not worth the hassle.

BTW one of the things Julian recommended was to take the screen out of the MAF. THIS IS WRONG. The reason it is there is not to hold out debris but to amalgamate the air flow so that the MAF reads correctly.

I read somewhere that I could never find again ( at a MAF maker's website maybe Bosch - but certainly not a forum) that the only time it is OK to delete the screen is if there is at least 300-350MM of straight hose before the MAF. Who has that?

So if you have a LRA snorkel and barrel filter it is just about ideal.

BTW I also took the pressure rise caused by the snorkle at 80KMh and it was 1-1.5 inches with cruise throttle ie NOTHING. This applies to a V8. maybe differnet on diesel. I cannot comment on flat filters.

Method used was Minihelic gauge tapped into inlet tube and sealed with ag joiner and silastic between airfilter and MAF.

Originally Posted by slugger

just replacing my filter box with a pod filter gave me much better airflow and used less fuel.

Does filtration concern you at all?

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I have done the tests recommended by Autospeed and the total restriction of a snorkle and standard barrel filter on a 92RRC is 11 inches of water to the mouth of the MAF.

This is NOTHING and seeing that I am not about to delete the MAF , then there is no need for any other filter box setup. I actually bought and modified a Commodore box before testing then decided it was not worth the hassle.

BTW one of the things Julian recommended was to take the screen out of the MAF. THIS IS WRONG. The reason it is there is not to hold out debris but to amalgamate the air flow so that the MAF reads correctly.

I read somewhere that I could never find again ( at a MAF maker's website maybe Bosch - but certainly not a forum) that the only time it is OK to delete the screen is if there is at least 300-350MM of straight hose before the MAF. Who has that?

So if you have a LRA snorkel and barrel filter it is just about ideal.

BTW I also took the pressure rise caused by the snorkle at 80KMh and it was 1-1.5 inches with cruise throttle ie NOTHING. This applies to a V8. maybe differnet on diesel. I cannot comment on flat filters.

Method used was Minihelic gauge tapped into inlet tube and sealed with ag joiner and silastic between airfilter and MAF.

Would you have a pic of your setup that I could see, I have a snorkle and barrel type airfilter, I was wondering where you connected the snorkle pipe to the barrel. BTW I don't have at least 300mm of hose before the MAF , I have removed the birdcatcher screen with the only effect being a slightly better throttle response. I have seen similar MAF systems on other vehicles and they didn't have a wire screen, I just don't see it being anything other than a restriction, Regards Frank.

Would you have a pic of your setup that I could see, I have a snorkle and barrel type airfilter, I was wondering where you connected the snorkle pipe to the barrel.

Mine is just the standard LRA side inlet into the air filter.
Look here.
Snorkel RRC

Well, I had mine out also but it could only have any effect at very high loads, and the sensor being on the inside of a bend would certainly see less air than if on the outside of the bend.
BTW throttle response is more to do with the TPS than the MAF. TPS is predictive MAF is reactive.
Regards Philip A

My snorkel is plumbed into the original air inlet of my barrel air cleaner. I did cut the trumpet off to get a better surface to weld the intake pipe onto it.

I recently replaced the air filter (quite clogged with dirt and bees), so I will be interested to see if I can feel any difference when I drive it next.

PhilipA,I can't see how having the air inlet on the side of the air filter could possibly work correctly. The filter and air box (can) is designed to work with the air entering the end of the cannister and the air flowing along the length of the filter. The side entry is concentrating the total air flow at one small area (3 to 4"dia.). My original air filter was setup like yours and the day I purchased it I removed the air filter and noted that the previous owner had been rotating the filter as it was totally clogged all around it's circumference. I changed my cannister and the difference in throttle response was very noticeable, if you want check out pics of my setup in Gallery under "Tank", Regards Frank.

Well it works.

Of course the filter gets dirtier where the pipe enters but the entry is not just 3-4 inches. It is a large oval about 6x4. Have a look at the photo.

The only minor problem caused is that in a very strong storm rain the facing side will get wet, but there is still plenty of filter.

Regards Philip A