Noice m8. I can recommend the Maxwell freefall HRC range. Bullet proof.
Cheers
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Noice m8. I can recommend the Maxwell freefall HRC range. Bullet proof.
Cheers
Trout
You’d have to confirm if the DF115 has it
But the df150/175 and bigger Zuks
Have dual output alternators
So run red lead to crank batt/batts
White lead to house batts
Two seperate circuits no isolator needed
If you wire it all up through a Blue Seas 6011 switch
You can kill all power, have separated charge or combine
The batts
Sooo then hook your solar controller to the house batts and fugetaboutit
If you want to trickle charge the crank at some time just flick switch to combine
I have run above setup on a DF175 for a few hundred hours and compared to a 1/2both/off
Switch or ACR it is superior
Steve
Trout
Just checked - unfortunately no bueno
DF150 and up for dual charge alternator
On a small boat where everything gets salted I would always choose something like a BlueSeas ACR over a traxide
Steve
I have recently replaced the 160w solar panel with a 250w unit on the boat and i now have plenty of surplus power.
I run the panel through a MPPT controler that feeds 2x 100ah deep cel batteries which in turn run an Engel 38l fridge also a pie warmer and 12v fan occasionally.
I have 2x 80ah deep cel cranking batteries in the boat and i am thinking of connecting these up to the solar circuit when i have the boat parked up to keep them topped up and in good condition.
As i dont intend to have the cranking batteries permenantly wired into the solar circuit i am thinking of simply using some 8mm dual core cable and running it through to the cranking batteries at the stern of the boat and use anderson plugs to tap into the solar whenever i need to.
This setup Should also enable me to charge up the 2x 100ah house batteries using the outboard in case the solar panel fails or I don't get enough sunlight on it But I will only connect it up when cruising so as not to drain the cranking batteries.
I wont be using any fancy electronics to control the charging system But I do have volt meters connected to both the cranking batteries and the house batteries so I will simply connect/disconnect via the Anderson plug to control the system manually.