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Yes Ben, what i do is before i transfer it to the keg, i lager the wort (clear it) to do this you transfer the wort into another fermenter, add 3 teaspoons of sugar, and stir lightly then let it sit for 1 to 2 days then transfer it to the keg.Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
This clears the beer so when it's been carbonated and you pull your first beer, it's as clear as a beer from the pub:BigThumb:
I also have a still:D
Baz.
Sorry to hijack the thread, but does anyone have any good info on how to start with a still. From building to stilling.
Internet sites, PDF's, general hints etc...
I have found a fair bit of info on the web, but I want to see what other members have used/found.
Only for stilling stuff for perfumes ofcourse, wink, wink.
I just bought one from a Homebrew shop, making one was just to hard and dearer than buying one.
Buy the urn type, saves money and aggrovation.
Baz.
Hmm - well - the first brew may be a disaster. Doing our best to cut down electricity usage (WA gas crisis) we haven't been heating the house. The brew was in the warmest room and surrounded in sleeping bags and blankets. Just checked and it is 16-18 deg.
What's the go - if we raise the temp now will the yeast pick back up? Or is that it?
Hi Ben
Is it still bubbling???
Should start out "busy" then settle to a slow bubble.
I havent started wrapping my fermenters or using the brew belts yet.Mine are in the spare room and I bet they are colder than yours!!!!
Just checked the stickers,14deg and still slowly bubling.
Slow brews are much better than quickies!!!! In summer my beer quality drops off,need an old fridge and a temp switch to cool the brews.
The Saff yeast will brew over a better temp range than the supplied.
Andrew
Hey Baz
Over here we call that racking!!!!
Anyhow,get into the Saffale yeast(blue packet) you wont need to rack,or lager.I go fermenter into the keg.I do leave a week or two longer in the fermenters when I keg it it is already totaly clear.
I still put the yeast supplied with the can into the fermenter,plus the Saff yeast.All the dregs form a solid cake at the bottom of the fermenter,its great stuff.
Andrew
Hi Ben
Low carb,less sugar both in brewing and residual in the brew,a bit more waistline/diabetic friendly.
Its still full strength beer,much drier in taste as the sugars get eaten up further.
Some of the sugars in the homebrew sugars are un-diegestable by the yeast and are there to provide sweetness.
The diatose and dry enzyme work real well together:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
There are many off the shelf Low carb beers available in bottleshops these days,all aimed at the same target.A low carb beer with full strenght/taste,have a look.
Andrew
Hi Andy - Thanks for the info!Quote:
Originally Posted by LandyAndy
I haven't pulled the top off to check. It haven't noticed it bubbling out the airlock, but it has been holding temp at 18-20 until the cold weather hit.
Hi Ben
When you first start out a Specific Gravity measurement realy helps.Involves taking measurements with a hydrometer at the start and towards the finish of brewing.
Most cans tell you the aproximate start and finish SGs,but it varies greatly with the sugars used.
I havent SGed my brews in many years.
Andrew
Was 1031 at the start. Will take another reading on the weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by LandyAndy