D3 Electric Trailer brake wired-photo

Quote:

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

You don't really need one, only 2 wires to connect in the rear if you run the positive and negative to the battery.
Just follow the guide as to which colours go where.

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Thanks. Here's a photo of my rear fuse block and wiring. My brake controller was installed by Peter "Sniegy" at Landrover Melbourne when I bought the car new in 2009. It is appears as though the Fog lamp fuse (fourth fuse down in the block) was changed to a 20amp fuse. This fog lamp fuse is normally just a 7.5 amp. This 20amp fuse has broken twice before during a braking event in the last year and the hydraulic brakes on the trailer remain clamped on as a result - a danger and major inconvenience.

I would like to have my wiring checked. Is there a specialist Landrover Auto Electrician that anyone can recommend in Melbourne?


Regards,
Paul

Looks like he used the fog light circuit to power the controller hence the bigger fuse, he might have modified the process afterwards as per the guide he posted.

how do i wire up a tekosha brake cotroller the pictures do not show the location of the fuse box etc

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sniegy

Hi all,
Earlier this week i had to wire a customers vehicle for Electric Trailer Brakes.
I took a couple of photos & this one was the best with everything in 1 shot.
I will try to explain basically as last time it wasnt to clear!!:(
Run 4 wires from the Electric trailer brake unit mounted under the steering column or where ever it is mounted to the rear of the vehilce l/h/s 1/4 panel.
WHITE wire is for earth & gets bolted to one of the terminals as u see in the photo.
BLACK wire is for power +ve & is connected to the 30amp circuit breaker & then another black wire from the circuit breaker (other side)gets connected to the thick PURPLE wire from the trailer wiring plug.
BLUE wire is for variable voltage feed to the electric brakes on your towed vehicle. This is connected to the brown wire from the fuse block. This wire is cut 30mm from the fuse block & the fuse block end is then soldered to the black wire in the fuse block(these are 2 park light circuits & we only need 1) The other end of the Brown wire goes to pin 5 which is for electric brake feed.
RED is brake light feed pick up This is connected to the Green/Purple trace wire in the trailer wiring plug.
As per LR instructions a "Diode" must be fitted & this goes between the connection of the red wire to the Green/Purple Kathode facing the electric brake unit.
**On the photo i ran out of blue wire & used another black for the blue wire connection to the brown wire.
When i receive stock of the blue i will replace photo.
Hope this helps some of the crew.:);)
If the photo is not big enough go to my gallery & view orig size.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/06/987.jpg

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Hi Folks,
informative thread.

I am hoping to get a van later in the year and will require EBC to be fitted. The van in mind has mandatory flat 12 pin as well as anderson plug to keep van battery topped up for the breakaway system.

Intent will be to fit a dedicated flat 12 pin socket to the D3 as well as the anderson plug.

To try and summarise to see if I am understanding this correctly.

• +ve from battery via 30A auto reset CB then to black wire to ECB
• -ve from negative terminal of battery or should it be from the chassis post? Then to WHITE wire to ECB
• From ECB trailer brake wire BLUE direct to the flat 12 pin plug (don't see the need to splice into existing trailer harness as I won't be using the 12N socket for the van)
• Diode connection: from trailer plug brake light wire to diode Cathode, diode Anode then to green/purple wire which is vehicle brake light wire. EBC RED trailer brake light wire comes from diode Cathode. This bit I am not sure about is where to make that connection. I was not able to zoom in with any clarity on the original photo.
• Other trailer light functions for indicators, side / rear lights splice into existing trailer plug harness.

do I have this correct?

Mud map schematic
Attachment 193746

thanks for bearing with me.
cheers
Peter

As per Sniegy’s original post you will find the higher resolution version of his hard to read photo in his members gallery.

Need to open link below from a browser window like chrome.

Message - AULRO Photo Gallery

Still hard to read the purple text but if you click on the picture to open and then zoom in it is almost all readable.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

As per Sniegy’s original post you will find the higher resolution version of his hard to read photo in his members gallery.

Need to open link below from a browser window like chrome.

Message - AULRO Photo Gallery

Still hard to read the purple text but if you click on the picture to open and then zoom in it is almost all readable.

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thanks mate, much appreciated, I can now just read it.

There were comments up further in the thread from another member and Sniegy about putting the diode further downstream to also pick up the trailer, wasn't sure where he meant by that. Anyway I will figure it out when the time comes.
cheers
Peter

In reality the original photo and write up is no longer applicable as the set up changed almost totally from the way Sniegy first would wire things up.

Your summary is probably the most concise re-write up.

This picture from midway through the thread is probably the clearest diagram for where to add the diode:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...17151171f6.jpg

These diagrams further illustrate what needs to be done and can be found in the Redarc manual.

Attachment 193807

Attachment 193808