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Thread: D3 Electric Trailer brake wired-photo

  1. #11
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    Many thanks to Pete for the advice posted here. I successfuly installed my Hayman Reese controller over the weekend.
    I did make one small change to Pete's wiring though. Instead of placing the diode on the wire running from the brake controller, I placed it upstream on the green / purple wire (ie between the CJB unit and the place where I tapped the green/purple wire). The purpose of doing this was to allow the EBC to activate the brake lights when it is operated manually by the driver whilst still providing protection to to the CJB unit.
    Note: This will only turn on the trailer brake lights, as the tow vehicle lights are on a seperate circuit.

    Andrew

  2. #12
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    Hi Andrew,
    Did some testing over the w/end & yes you are correct.
    I have now altered my method of fitting the diode to upstream of the green/purple wire.
    I then attach the red wire from the controller to the kathode end of the diode & green/purple wire togethor.

    I will adjust the photo hopefully some time this week.

    Cheers all.

  3. #13
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    Hi Sniegy,
    CW, on another forum , has described a fitment w/o using the diode. Are you in a position to comment?

    Best Wishes,
    Peter

  4. #14
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    Hi Pete,
    Yes i did see "his" comment.
    What he says is what he says, I am not fussed, Only trying to help.

    I am only doing as LR say, I have paperwork at work (I work for a dealer)
    & can only go by what LRA send to me wrt wiring specifications.
    I cant unfortunately copy this paperwork for obvious reasons.

    The diode is specifically in the instructions, therefore i "will" fit it & will pass as much info as i am possibly aloud to likewise enthusiasts.
    It is there for a reason & that is to protect your CJB. If u get some backfeed from your Electric Trailer brake unit(say it short circuits for some reason), It can cause the CJB to burn out..Then you are up for some big bucks. Car stops & goes no-where. Part is VIN order only & can take some time to get here.
    I am not trying to scare anyone, but this may happen(and has, i have seen 2 vehicles in the workshop when the D3 was early released & customers took them to their local Auto sparky), may happen, I would rather be safe than stuck somewhere towing your Van, Boat or Bike trailer..

    I am not going to get into a stupid argument over an ETB unit for the sake of it. I will give him credit for what he has done. He has deciphered wiring instructions off a NAS D3 & has done well. Good on him & if it works for all the best.
    This does have a plug which we do not get in our loom. (which would of been handy).

    As said Pete happy to help in any way.

    I will try to download a newer photo sometime this week....Hopefully.

    Cheers

  5. #15
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    Hi Sniegy,
    Thanks for taking the time to clarify.
    Best Wishes,
    Peter
    Ps: Would you care to post similar details on the "other" forum? I suggest this as I am a naivete and would hold no authority.

  6. #16
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    Hi Pete,
    Preferably Not.
    I would rather just state the facts here as i support this forum.

    There is a link & if he wishes to read what has been posted here then great. No need to get into a bicker about something silly.

    I think we are better than that.

    Cheers.

  7. #17
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    Hi Pete,
    I respect your point of view.

    I was not interested in starting a bicker session, but rather to give an alternative point of view.

    Their loss.

    I look forward to your update.

    Best Wishes,
    Pete

  8. #18
    RichardK is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    A couple of questions:

    I have just wired up the new disco as per the above details and put the diode in as per the 2nd suggested way;

    Is it OK to use heat shrink tube on the diode?

    When I plug the trailer in the Discos' tail lights come on, would that be feedback from my trailers battery?

    Does anyone have the wiring pin numbers for the large pin plug, is it the same as the small plugs?
    RichardK

    Series IV Matrix Offroad Camper following our Discovery 3 with E Diff, BAS Remap, Mitch Hitch, Uniden UHF, Codan NGT HF, Masten TPMS, Proquip Compressor Guard, ARB Winch Bar, Milemarker Hydraulic Winch, 4x4 Intelligence Rear Wheel Carrier, VMS GPS with Rear Camera,

  9. #19
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    I have all the trailer plug diagrams here
    12 volt stuff

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by sniegy View Post
    I am not going to get into a stupid argument over an ETB unit
    I do not wish to either but will post in order to give a balanced revue.
    firstly my concern was that your method would not operate the vehicles brake lights by the inclusion of the diode which was a safety issue for me and I stated somewhere if a diode was to be used that it should be moved and this has been addressed.
    from another thread elsewhere I did a bit of digging and found that Land Rover UK had designed the LR3 with a brake controller in mind and the designers saw fit not to include a diode ( I believe module D162 adresses this on the pcb as it can get a backfeed/short/ground from its own lighting cct should a fault occur). a short cct will only apply 12v to the brake cct which is what the over ride does anyway and when the pedal is depressed its (the D3)owns system will apply 12v to the CJB which has no diode. only a catastrophic failure of the controller may cause an issue but then you can simply unplug it. if you look at the wiring diag the brake controller poses no more threat than the left,right and upper brake lights under fault conditions

    that is my view on the subject and what I did. people can choose their preferred method.

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