Page 1 of 11 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 101

Thread: D3 Electric Trailer brake wired-photo

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,626

    D3 Electric Trailer brake wired-photo

    Hi all,
    Earlier this week i had to wire a customers vehicle for Electric Trailer Brakes.
    I took a couple of photos & this one was the best with everything in 1 shot.
    I will try to explain basically as last time it wasnt to clear!!
    Run 4 wires from the Electric trailer brake unit mounted under the steering column or where ever it is mounted to the rear of the vehilce l/h/s 1/4 panel.
    WHITE wire is for earth & gets bolted to one of the terminals as u see in the photo.
    BLACK wire is for power +ve & is connected to the 30amp circuit breaker & then another black wire from the circuit breaker (other side)gets connected to the thick PURPLE wire from the trailer wiring plug.
    BLUE wire is for variable voltage feed to the electric brakes on your towed vehicle. This is connected to the brown wire from the fuse block. This wire is cut 30mm from the fuse block & the fuse block end is then soldered to the black wire in the fuse block(these are 2 park light circuits & we only need 1) The other end of the Brown wire goes to pin 5 which is for electric brake feed.
    RED is brake light feed pick up This is connected to the Green/Purple trace wire in the trailer wiring plug.
    As per LR instructions a "Diode" must be fitted & this goes between the connection of the red wire to the Green/Purple Kathode facing the electric brake unit.
    **On the photo i ran out of blue wire & used another black for the blue wire connection to the brown wire.
    When i receive stock of the blue i will replace photo.
    Hope this helps some of the crew.
    If the photo is not big enough go to my gallery & view orig size.




  2. #2
    Timj is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane,Qld.
    Posts
    1,178
    Hi Sniegy,

    That is a very useful photo, thanks. One question though - where did you run the wiring to get it from the front through into the back corner? I am currently trying to work out where to run cables for both the Prodigy controller and the extensions from a second battery. I know they can be run inside the chassis rail but then they have to be brought back inside somehow and if there is some way to run them inside I then need to get some of the wiring outside to run to the battery in the trailer.

    My D3 is now just over a week old so I have to start modifying .

    Tim.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,626
    Hi Timj,
    I ran the wiring from the front panel below the steering column across the under tray where the pedals are & then ran them straight down the side of the vehicle. It is very easy running cables down the side.
    The trim from the front drivers tread plate & the rear tread plate is one plastc panel & i removed this (all u do is gently prise it upwards) as well as the "B" pillar trim so i could remove this one panel all together.
    I then ran the 4 cables next to the felt door seal all the way along, Near the "C" pillar it all just tucks nicely away under the big 1/4 panel. I then removed the tailgate flap & tucked it under the carpet to get it to the L/H/S.
    To gain access into the vehicle from the engine bay there is a large grommet under the brake fluid panel. It sits on the firewall towards the centre of the vehicle, with a torch u cant miss...just a bit of sound deadening on the inside.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Batemans Bay NSW
    Posts
    25

    electric brake controller

    As my camper has been ordered with electric brakes I'm looking for a good controller. Ive been told by the camper manufacture ARB have one for about $400, any suggestions.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    756
    If you can find out from your camper trailer dealer what is approved with the brake set up then list up the alternatives they suggest.

    This comment might not be appliable to all braking systems but is on my van.

    Chris

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    49
    Hi sgieny

    Thanks for your photos and comments, I'm 90% there. Just two queries, firstly I assume the circuit braker is after market (dual battery) and under the bonnet? and secondly what type of diode do you use and the best place to source one.

    Thanks again.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,626
    Quote Originally Posted by smwilk View Post
    Hi sgieny

    Thanks for your photos and comments, I'm 90% there. Just two queries, firstly I assume the circuit braker is after market (dual battery) and under the bonnet? and secondly what type of diode do you use and the best place to source one.

    Thanks again.
    Hi There "smwilK",
    OK the circuit breaker is an after market unit, but it is basicaly a no intervention resetable fuse. In the picture u can just see it at the bottom of the photo. It gets taped up & cable tied to the wiring loom. Get one of these at any Bursons/Repco shop nearest to you.
    The Diode is just a 3amp version that can be picked up for not much more than a dollar from Dick Smith's or some electronics shop close to yourself.

  8. #8
    dmdigital's Avatar
    dmdigital is offline OldBushie Vendor

    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Arnhem Land, NT
    Posts
    8,492
    Hi Pete is the Diode only a D3 requirement I assume it is used for over voltage protection, is it needed in a D2?

    I'm putting a Tekonsha P3 into my D2 and came across this thread.
    MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6

    Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    179

    Diode?????

    Yes I also query the Diode.
    I also want to know which controller and what vehicle/model you are citing.

    My rig, a Defender needed only one wire to the back.
    The white wire goes directly to ground near the Tekonsha controller. The power comes accross from the battery under the floor, up under the fire wall to near the steering column, in there through a new hole drilled downwards with grommet, accross to controller.
    The brake light sensor pickup comes directly off the switch for the brakelight.

    My tips are to run oversized wires from the battery (but fused near the battery, at the requiste current - around 10-15A.), and also back to the rear socket. I also fuse the sensor feed at about 500mA.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,626
    Quote Originally Posted by dm_td5 View Post
    Hi Pete is the Diode only a D3 requirement I assume it is used for over voltage protection, is it needed in a D2?

    I'm putting a Tekonsha P3 into my D2 and came across this thread.
    Hi Derek,
    No a diode is not required in a D2, D1 or Defender as the diode protects the CJB (Central Junction Box) in the newer D3/RRS/Vogues.
    In eliminates feed back to this CJB so as not to damage it, more for protection as the CJB controls a lot of stuff & is one expensive ECU.

    Rovers4, I would strongly recommend that the earth wire (white) be run back to the battery as per instructions on all EBC's. This can cause a fire hazard as the unit may get hot as the earth becomes over time less conductive & corrosion sets in between the connection.

Page 1 of 11 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!