I bought a set of 4 resistors for $6.45 delivered off eBay. 50ohm 6w. No probs with them so far.
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I bought a set of 4 resistors for $6.45 delivered off eBay. 50ohm 6w. No probs with them so far.
I connected a trailer with LED lights a few days ago, the only issue was the left indicator on the trailer wouldn't work, turned the lights on the car on and bingo, all good, all lights and indicators working.
BUT, the trailer symbol was not flashing when using the indicators that I can remember, would that mean the car was not recognizing the trailer??
Seemed to tow fine:)
Baz.
I still haven't installed my resistors so cant comment on them yet but I did notice the other night when I openned my door, the brake (or was it the rear lights) on the trailer came on. Has anyone had this happen? I know someone mentioned that you have to have your door closed earlier but I found it rather bizzare.
Gosh, what a fuss a "feature" that's meant to help make our trucks smarter has caused for so many people. An excellent example of the law of unintended consequences.
I've just changed the lights on my trailer to LEDs and now have this "flicker" issue with my 2005 Range Rover (L322) TD6.
I've noticed on mine that both turning indicators and the tail lights are "flickering" so I assume that means I need to put shunt resistors and relays on both the indicator and the tail light circuits (3 circuits in total)?
I see most of the dialogue on this thread refers to the D3/D4/RRS platform so I'm guessing the fact that the tail lights are also flickering on the L322 might be an additional "feature" of the L322.
Cheers & thanks to all those who have posted info on this thread. It's all very helpful.
LandieMan.
This looks like an excellent cheap and easy solutionQuote:
Originally Posted by flotty1974
Unfortunately the easiest and cheapest solution is to change indicators to globes. I did this with mine but would rather have LED compatibility as I've hired trailers a couple of times with LED's.
Can anyone else confirm Redback's observation that having the headlights on changes the behaviour of the LED's on the trailer? I would be happy to use this as a workaround if it as reliable.
I finally got around to putting the resistors on the trailer which was easy as. Obviously it wasn't as cheap as Epic's sollution but less of a brain strain for me with all of the different talk on this forum about ohms and watts :spudnikdizzy:. Anyway, it works great.
For those who think the flickering is only a LR issue, my friend who has an F truck just changed his rear lights to LED and had the same issue. The only issue for him was each time he changed the lights to LED (including the front and clearance lights) he put in an extra resistor :Rolling: , anyway another friend with a VW is also have a similar issue.
Does anyone know if the eletrical companies are selling LED lights with resistors already in them? This would generally solve every bodies issue (if the car companies caught up would also fix it but not as cheap).
Why the rolling smiley?Quote:
Originally Posted by flotty1974
People who fit LEDs to save power are the :Rolling:...
LEDs are for reliability and intensity.. Nothing more :)
Trying to 'save power' on a vehicle really is a total waste with a modern vehicle...
$14.50 would be nice... I saw one one of these on the shelf at Repco in Christchurch today for $38.40. Funnily enough it stayed on the shelf. I need 3 of them, plus relays so it starting to get expensive. The search continues.Quote:
Originally Posted by flotty1974
LandieMan
Why do you need 3, D3 only needs 1 x resistor and relay on each indicator circuit.
D4 (as I understand it) needs 1 x resistor on each indicator circuit.
4 x resistors from Ebay AUS $9 shipped, from Hong Kong.
I prefer 50w as they get quite hot.