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Good job. Just one safety related observation
I cant tell from your pics, but is your enclosure metal? Those load resistors get very hot and should be bolted to metal, preferably with heat paste, as a heat sink.
Some plastic boxes could melt or worse even catch fire.
Thanx bbyer.
Yes Grappler, the enclosure is metal. I built the system to dissipate as much heat as possible while using such a small space. In fact, during the initial test phase with just the wiring and eliminating the U-haul adapter I previously was using, I checked to see how quickly the resistors heated up...YOWZA!!! In just the amount of time it took to turn on the turn signal from the drivers window and walk back to the testing system, the resistor got dang hot. One can quickly burn the fingers! :o
Cool?
Thought it was worth mentioning, for others that may want to build one
Yep, makes sense Grappler. I was concerned about the heat and the continued use of the turn signals and heat generated while possibly waiting for the lights to change at an intersection. Then I realized, the same style &/or value of resistors are used by many for "upgraded" lights with continued use. I was prepared to only activate my turning signals when actually in motion; not when sitting motionless at an intersection. But after checking thermal values, I am no longer concerned.
help guys
i have read this thread 2 times now and i still can't stop the tail lights from flashing. i am using the Narva LED Load Resistor. i have used the splicing tools that came with the kit to slice the yellow wire (left hand indicator) and the white Wire (earth) and the same on the other side Green wire (right hand indicator) and the white Wire (Earth). the dash trailer light comes on when i use either the right or left indicator though it doesn't come on when i have the ignition only on no motor running. and the indicator light still flashes. i am at my wits end and not sure what else i could do.
hope some one can tell me what i am going wrong.
would soldering the resistor to the green and white wire help.
What car and year is this on?
Cheers,
Gordon
The only way that your trailer lights are going to stop flashing is if once the resistor fools the system into believing there is a trailer incandescent globe attached the system stops sending the sensing pulse. If your vehicle continues to send sensing pulses all the time then you will need the relays to effectively filter out the short duration sensing pulse and only light up your trailer LEDs when the indicator circuit actually sends the longer duration turning signal (blinking/blinkers).Quote:
Originally Posted by coopers1969
hi Gordon
it is a 2007 D3 and after reading this article for a 3rd time i have worked out where i went wrong i don't have the relays in place the car knows there is a trailer there as the reversing sensors do not engage. I know need to get the relays.
is there a certain type i should get?? and which numbers on the relays need to be wired to which parts of the wiring loom. or is that explained in the instructions that come with the relays.
In this photo posted earlier in this thread you can see two relays that look like common garden variety automotive relays similar to the ones found on most vehicles in places like near the fuse board or under the bonnet. The relays are the two black plastic cased components on the LHS of the pic with the cable tie holding them together.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...s-img_2618.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ml#post1332534 This link at post #16 has a pdf file with how to connect the relays.
Just in case the coil shown in Fig 2 between connectors number 85 and 86 is shown as a little curly pigtail between the yellow and black wires and the green and black wires, your resistors need to be connected to these two connectors. Pin/connector numbered 30 is the one going to your LED lights. ANd yes the relays normally have the connector numbers either molded into the plastic or stamped on with paint. If you have any problems get back on here and post a photo or describe your problem as best you can with text.
If your up for a bit more reading here is a primer on relays
http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com...ding_Intro.htm
You will need to connect connector/pin 86 to 87 to supply a voltage so that when the relay closes it will supply your LEDs through pin 30.
Hope that helps.
Cooper, in case you have already sorted it out, here is the pdf I used. I added the # in red for each connection so that I could easily refer to connections and not make a mistake.
Slug, an FYI, the vehicle continues to send the pulse voltage even after having recognized the attachment of a trailer thru the use of the resistors (or normal incandescent trailer lights). The pulse from the vehicle continues, the installation of the relays merely stops the pulse voltage from reaching the lights.
Have a great week everyone!