Are you putting the relays in also?
If not you’ll still get the “twinkle”
I've just re-read the whole thread and the answer is anywhere between "too hot to hold" and "up to 140C". That idea might need a re-think then, putting the resistor(s) in a tube might not get rid of the heat efficiently.
2016 D4 TDV6 Corris Grey
--------------------------------------------------------
2018 D5 TD6 SE Silicon Silver - gone
2011 D4 TDV6 2.7 Indus Silver - gone
IIDTool BT
Are you putting the relays in also?
If not you’ll still get the “twinkle”
I have a D4, I would only need a resistor so the car recognises the trailer. I've ordered a small metal box to house one resistor and will put this in the 7 pin round to 7 pin flat adaptor cable.
Ron
2016 D4 TDV6 Corris Grey
--------------------------------------------------------
2018 D5 TD6 SE Silicon Silver - gone
2011 D4 TDV6 2.7 Indus Silver - gone
IIDTool BT
That’s similar to how I build my Boxes.
I’ve got a heap of them pre built here with twin resistors, plugs and cable.
I build them in spare moments.
I can't seem to click on the link to get the wiring diagram. Can any one re post it or send and email please.
I’m wondering how my Ranger issue is related - if it is... apologies non-landy but my trailer is sorta close!
I’ve got an ex-military No5 trailer that has a convoy light which is LED. The rest are standard incandescent.
I’ve wired the convoy as my reverse lamp and it works... but flickers at all other times, including when I shut down and remove key for about 10 mins. This is the same for the LED lamp in my canopy, where I utilised the former roll-bar wiring (except it’s steady there, no flicker).
No other lights flicker and I am using a Ford LED trailer adapter plug...
Obviously some check/CANBUS thing but what is the cheapest way to resolve?
I note if I remove all the incandescent bulbs in the trailer (brake, tail, indicators) the flickering stops...). The earth is good... All other lights function correctly...
Cheers,
Dave
1974 Military Lightweight Landy --- Some dementia at 48 years old
2000 Disco series 2 now sadly moved on!
No5 Trailer joined the fold... Awaiting graduation to road licensed!
Ford Ranger 2013 XLT.
I have recently purchased 1 of the haulmark military trailers PT 1.2 i think they are , anyway i want to make up the adaptor so i can use my D3 to tow it . I understand the diagram in post 16 and intend to use that as a template, but am jut curious if people who have made up these adaptors have mounted the load resisters seperate to the relays , OR , have mounted everything in a single waterproof type box.
Does anyone see an issue with mounting load resisters seperate on the chassis near the lights to remove the heat easier , or , is heat not so much of an issue in real world operating..
Thanks and cheers Bulletman
The resistors do heat and should be mounted sensibly to conduct heat away but in the course of normal operation (ie blinker operation to signify turning and then cancelled) they will not get overly hot. Where you might run into trouble with heat is where you turn hazard lights on and the blinkers are left flashing for long periods of times.
Mine reached 80c after 20 mins and then seamed to stabilise but of course the long term temperature depends very much on how you mount them.
2011 D4 3.0 SDV6
1999 D2 V8, in heaven
1984 RRC, in hell
Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
---|
|
|
Bookmarks