Since the wattage rating of a resistor is its ability to handle the power of the circuit, using a lesser rated wattage resistor would produce more heat and would be more likely to fail.
Having said this the 25W resistor is adequate as 6.8ohm resistor draws about 1.9A at 13 volts. P=VA 24.7watts.
The resistor mimics a nominally 21watt turn indicator bulb
When it came to me wiring up my caravan which has 12 pin flat plug to work with the round plug of the D4, I just added one resistor to one indicator wire to the conversion lead. I read that people seem to think the resistor gets very hot. All I can say is mine is mounted to the flat plug on a "heat sink" of strip metal I found lying around. I am sure if the heat generated by this resistor gets as hot as people say on this post, then I would notice some melting of plastic. In have not. I can only assume that the resistor gets hot when its working, which is in reality only when the indicator light is activated. I would assume for it to get so hot it melted plastic it would have to be working for a considerable time, and a lot more than we usually have our indicators working. What I did notice once I attached the resistor, my car behaved quite differently in regards to gear changes, no reversing chimes etc. I was surprised as I would have thought the only time the car would know a van is attached is when the resistor doing its job.
2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 KO, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery with winch set up,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap
You have a D4. This thread is related to the D3 and LED trailer lights. The D4 and the D3 behave differently. The D3 is continually pulses the trailer indicator lights. So if you had done what you say you did on a D3 your trailer LED lights would flicker and your resistors would be worked even though you have not activated your indicators. Since they are continuously being pulsed they would be heating also. How hot they might get I can't say but the point being on a D3 they are not worked only when the indicator light is activated as you have assumed, they are worked all the time.
People with D3's need to consider the difference between the D3 and the D4 with respect to the behaviour of load resistors and LED trailer lights.
2011 D4 3.0 SDV6
1999 D2 V8, in heaven
1984 RRC, in hell
I recently had the left hand circuit in my Liner electronics trailer module fail, so I rebuilt a whole new one, costs less than half the price of buying a replacement.
Shane
2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html
Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'
No. The car won’t select offroad height automatically - so as not to throw a trailer bum down in the ground.
You can still manually select the lift.
You can wire it anywhere on the indicator power feed - behind the light will work if you like. Just between indicator power feed to earth
Last edited by Tombie; 27th January 2022 at 09:24 AM.
Is there any benefit in fitting a resistor on the tail light power feed ?
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
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