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Thread: D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

  1. #681
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Falcon, WA
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    Thanks Dean,

    I point to pointed the cables and they buzzed out correct.
    I put the diode as per the picture I sent you and it appears to be working ok now.
    I took my van for a spin and it was flashing blue/green for a little bit while calibrating, then it when hard on blue.
    I turned my lights on and off a few times and the brakes did not activate!
    Not sure what the problem was but it possible won't work in manual overide but I never use this anyway.

    Thanks
    Darren

    Quote Originally Posted by Tankmat View Post
    Hi Darren,
    In the early days I recall several people placed the diode in the wrong position (ie where the circle is on your wiring schematic, the red sense wire). While this worked it did not protect the CJB and prevented the trailer brake lights coming on during manual override application of the trailer brakes.
    Cheers
    Dean

  2. #682
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by LRD414 View Post
    The PDF version is suitable to protect vehicle from a Tow Pro failure that "may" send a high current out to the CJB. The diode is in the sense wire in this version.

    However, this version does not illuminate the vehicle brake lights when the manual trailer brake button is pressed.

    This issue is fixed by the version in the jpg file. The CJB is still protected but the brake signal can travel from controller to brake light during manual operation.

    One issue with the jpg version: the diode size needs to be increased because 3A is potentially not enough for the full current required for say 4 x trailer lights. You may have noted a few people have increased diode size to 6A for this arrangement.

    Regards,
    Scott
    I have a couple of questions that I would be grateful to have answered by the experts please.

    I have just found out my Auto elec only installed a 4 amp diode (but in the correct spot 2014 Discovery 4). Is this going to be OK or do I need to get it changed out for a 6 amp diode?

    If this 4 Amp diode receives a potentially full current e.g. when pressing the control button on the Tow Pro Elite brake controller, does the diode just fail and break the circuit?

    I will be towing a TVan which has led lights but I intend to add Narva 21W load resistors into the middle of a trailer plug adapter soon.

    Many thanks in advance. Peter
    2014 D4 HSE, Traxide Dual Battery System, llams, Compomotive Rims, Prospeed Roof Rack, Rock Sliders and Compressor Guard.

  3. #683
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Drouin
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    L320 electric brake controller wiring

    Quote Originally Posted by sniegy View Post
    Morning all,
    Thought i would post up some photo's i have for the new D4 Electric trailer brakes.
    The wiring has changed in the Discovery 4 which is a good thing as it is easier to wire.
    Now lets begin & hopefully it will be clear for all to follow.

    Trailer Plug info(7 Pin Plug):- Australian Regs:-
    Pin1 Yellow Left Indicator
    Pin2 Black Reverse/Auxilary
    Pin3 White Earth
    Pin4 Green Right Indicator
    Pin5 Blue Electric trailer brakes/Auxilary
    Pin6 Red Brakes
    Pin7 Brown Tail lights


    As per usual 4 wires:-
    Black +ve direct to battery via Circuit Breaker.
    White -ve direct to battery/battery post.
    Red Connection to brake light wire in trailer loom.
    Blue Connection to Pin No. 5 on Black trailer plug socket.
    You will need to run Black & White wire to the front of the vehicle & the Red & Blue wire to the rear of the vehicle under the L/H/S tail light.
    All 4 wires will run from the position you decide to place your Electric trailer brake unit. (normally at the L/H top edge of the panel under the steering wheel).
    When removing this panel just grab the top section & pull in an arc downward, if you brake, lose the clips the part number is FYC500040.

    In this photo below i have had to find the splice joint in the wiring loom for the park light circuit (all European vehicles run a left & a right park light circuit in there vehicle wiring loom)
    It is basically one wire feeding 2 Pin outs. (Pin 7 is our park light circuit & Pin 5 is our supply for our Electric trailer brake varying voltge).
    Remove the L/H/R tail light assembly by undoing the 2 phillips head screws & then prising the light gentry from the body with a flat blade & cloth inserted between them so as not to scratch the paint work.
    Cut away the black tape on the loom that goes down to the bottom connector, you will come across the splice joint (brown cable with glue coming out on connection-you will notice it starts as a black wire only & after this splice joint it will have a brown & black coming out). The black wire goes to Pin no. 7 & is your park light wire, the brown wire is the other park light wire that we do not need & connect the blue wire to for your trailer brakes. Cut wire as close to splice as possible, tape splice joint up & connect your blue wire to the brown wire that now goes to the plug in the wiring loom.



    What we have done is basically supply the cut brown wire the varying voltage for your trailer brakes via the blue wire we have run.
    The red wire just connects to the red wire in the same loom that goes to the bottom plug, this is the brake light wire pick up.
    In this photo you can just make out the 2 connections & the cut of the brown wire.




    The photo above just shows the exit point on the firewall (rubber grommet) that i passed the cable through. This is on the drivers side brake booster compartment.
    Below shows how i cable tied up nice & neatly the Black & White wire to connect directly to the battery via a Circuit breaker & Earth post next to the Main battery box.


    On the new vehicles there is no 2nd fuse box in the rear nor the need for the Diode.

    Cheers all.

    p.s. sorry for the poor quality images, from my phone. Will hopefully get better pics when i can.
    Hi Sneigy, I found your post and then started looking for same on a L320 2012 but got redirected here.
    I have followed your directions but cannot seem to find the splice on the brown wire behind the left rear taillight.
    Any update on difference on a L320?
    Also, I don’t how to post a photo
    Have just recently purchased the RRS to ad to the 2010 Disco 4 which already has electric brake controller but I didn’t install.

  4. #684
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Quote Originally Posted by Defenderbuff View Post
    cannot seem to find the splice on the brown wire behind the left rear taillight.
    On the later D4s the splice moved from originally outside, below the tail light to inside the rear LHS compartment where the tow hitch receiver is stored. It is usually wrapped in a white sticker that you need to remove.

  5. #685
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    back in WA
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    help....

    ok,

    Not sure what I am looking at here but my brake controller is dead. cant get any LED to go on the remote. I am getting a trailer stop lamp fault

    Brake.jpg


    in addition i am getting all 4 reverse sensor errors.

    I have had a look a the splices in the rear LH (light splices) thinking there could be a error.. - and found this (had auto elect install some 8/9 years ago)

    Br1.jpg
    Br2.jpg
    Br3.jpg
    Br4.jpg


    apart from the resistor - and **** load of dust / dirt i cant see an issue - however - reading through I have not seen any one put a resistor in the circuit.

    Any glaringly wrong??? if not suspect the controller is stuffed.

    Resistor could be the issue? why is is it there ?

    Appreciate any help

  6. #686
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    back in WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by gotaflat View Post
    ok,

    Not sure what I am looking at here but my brake controller is dead. cant get any LED to go on the remote. I am getting a trailer stop lamp fault

    Brake.jpg


    in addition i am getting all 4 reverse sensor errors.

    I have had a look a the splices in the rear LH (light splices) thinking there could be a error.. - and found this (had auto elect install some 8/9 years ago)

    Br1.jpg
    Br2.jpg
    Br3.jpg
    Br4.jpg


    apart from the resistor - and **** load of dust / dirt i cant see an issue however - reading through I have not seen any one put a resistor in the circuit.

    Any glaringly wrong??? if not suspect the controller is stuffed.

    Resistor could be the issue? why is is it there ?

    Appreciate any help
    Update- no power to back splice (power through the front circuit breaker to the controller ok ) nothing seemingly out and to the back lights...

    Assumption - Controller R##ted?

    As for the reverse sensors - bumper has to come off to check all the wiring ...

  7. #687
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Whyalla, SA
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    Quote Originally Posted by gotaflat View Post
    Update- no power to back splice (power through the front circuit breaker to the controller ok ) nothing seemingly out and to the back lights...

    Assumption - Controller R##ted?

    As for the reverse sensors - bumper has to come off to check all the wiring ...
    Bumper comes off easy!

  8. #688
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Perth
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    I found this black spliced wiring on the passenger side, I believe it goes to the back tow loom brown wire tap. Looks like a non factory install. I’m not sure why this would be required, as there is already a black tail light tap into the brown wire further in the tow bar loom.




    Goes here.



    On the same brown trailer loom further down, factory black parking light tap. Mind you, this brown wire is FOR pin 5 brake controller, hence I have cut the brown.


  9. #689
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    buderim
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    volta at pin 5

    i have 7.87 vdc at pin 5, over 12 on the others
    there is a redarc ebtm but no idea where the module is, the control knob lights red when trailer is disconnected, goes out when connected, the brakes slam on when connected to a battery, nothing when coupled to the d4
    my query, will the voltage rise when towing, which'd seem odd because the redarc seems an older model, as it is when the D4 is running volts are into 13.s but at pin still 7.87
    or should i try connecting the brake wire into pin 4, (service brakes}
    Any help would be welcome, especially info on voltage at socket pin 5

  10. #690
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Whyalla, SA
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuarth44 View Post
    i have 7.87 vdc at pin 5, over 12 on the others
    there is a redarc ebtm but no idea where the module is, the control knob lights red when trailer is disconnected, goes out when connected, the brakes slam on when connected to a battery, nothing when coupled to the d4
    my query, will the voltage rise when towing, which'd seem odd because the redarc seems an older model, as it is when the D4 is running volts are into 13.s but at pin still 7.87
    or should i try connecting the brake wire into pin 4, (service brakes}
    Any help would be welcome, especially info on voltage at socket pin 5
    Variable voltage is how the brakes work…
    Wind it right up and test.

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