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Thread: TD5 has power, won’t start, immobiliser won’t honk.

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    TD5 has power, won’t start, immobiliser won’t honk.

    I think it died. Previous owner had spliced into into the back dome light for an LED on a post. I have the interior apart to deal with the headliner. Went to move that wire for the LED’s switch, it sparked on contact with the roof. Now it won’t start. Immobiliser doesn’t even yell at me when I disconnected and reconnected the battery. Headlights come on, dashboard lights up, horn honks, I can hear the fuel pump doing its thing, but no juice to the starter. Only fuse that looks blown was the 15A under the hood for auxiliaries. S&M auto transmission lights flash, oil & battery lights stay on. Got a few beeps from the dash on a turn or two of the key, but can’t get them again. Moved it in and out of Park repeatedly, tried starting in Neutral too.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
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    The number one thing to check is the small red warning light flashing in the dash(for the immobiliser).

    I think it flashes once per sec or something .. that means it's immobilised, so you'll never start it.

    You will need the EKA code, which can be inputted via the driver door lock. Search for EKA code if you don't know it or how it works.

    Sounds like you only just recently got the D2 or something .. and if this is so, then I'd recommend that your next purchase/repair/whatever is a nanocom to evaluate all the errors it's thrown up.
    It's fairly unlikely it hasn't done that.

    Is the battery in new or near new condition. I don't mean simply that it can start the car, it literally needs to be in top condition .. so maybe having fused that light wire it may have dipped a little and the ECU quickly spat a dummy ... or whatever.

    I've accidentally fused stuff with the bros TD5 too, but never had it immobilise on me.
    It did once immobilise, when it was newly purchased by bro .. and it left us stranded in a hot shopping centre car park with tons of melting groceries.
    Used internet to work stuff out .. once we noticed the red flashing light on the instrument pod.
    The EKA code it had, was noted down in the owners manual in the glovebox .. thank christ for that! .. we knew nothing of this stuff at the time.
    Anyhow, the eka code was somethign like 3-11-11-5 or something really annoying like that, and trying to remember turning the key 11 times in a certain direction .. twice! .. he nearly abandoned the car there and then.
    With EKA code inputted, and red light out, we went to start it, it kicked over but immediately immobilised again.
    That was the impetus to get a brand new battery .. re input the EKA code(having stuffed it up again, and having to do it again) .. but once inputted again correctly, now with brand new battery started up fine(and half joking chatter of arson dismissed )..

    We learned our lesson with that... bought the nanocom, used it to change the EKA to a more simple sequence.

    If it's not immobilised(red flashing light) .. the other thing to take note of on the instrument cluster is if you have the PRD321 indicator display the correct value for a given setting on the trans lever. Another thing that can give grief is the XYZ switch down at the transmission.

    You haven't mentioned what year yours is .. is it a D2a, or earlier. I think some wiring is different.
    I find it unlikely that fusing the interior lights would have caused the non start issue.
    In pre D2a wiring, those lights only go through fuse20(15A) in the drivers side interior fuse box, and through fusible link3(50A) in the engine bay fusebox.
    Having replaced the fuse, do the interior lights work again?
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

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