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Thread: D2 Prop shaft secrets - , UJ's, double cardan joints.

  1. #1
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    Guard D2 Prop shaft secrets - , UJ's, double cardan joints.

    A MUST SEE!!
    [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pVqdCtQb8U[/ame]


    D2 Double-cardan joints


    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery/...t-problem.html
    Last edited by Pedro_The_Swift; 19th July 2015 at 06:42 AM.
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  2. #2
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    Prop shaft secrets - how not to skin your knuckles


  3. #3
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    Replacing UJ's on D2

    This by the Good Graces of Urban Panzer
    www.discovery2.co.uk / Workshop :- front and Rear propshaft
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  4. #4
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    Last edited by Pedro_The_Swift; 29th August 2010 at 06:42 AM.
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  5. #5
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    Went chasing yesterday to fix the shaft issue I finally ended up with. A variety of information ensued, mostly conflicting with each other between manufacturers of parts and the people who use said parts to build assemblies. I have also amassed a list of different numbers for the unis and centre balls.

    Hardy Spicer's info: The std uni is a 1300, available in greasable and non-greasable. A 1310 won't fit as while the cap sizes are the same the cross is slightly wider and the caps will not fit inside the circlips. The std unis are about $45-. The centre ball is approx $80-.

    A "first stage" upgrade would be to build a new shaft for 1310's, the biggest uni that a flange is available for to suit the Rover transfer flange. Costing approx $60- per uni plus larger double cardan assembly, centre ball & welding, balancing etc. Approx $480-

    A "Ultimate" upgrade consists of a 1310 upgrade at the diff end plus a 25R double cardan at the transfer end. This is a Toyota joint with massive unis and a specially made flange for the transfer end. The 25R joint is approx $460- plus $60- for the 1310 uni plus assy and balancing. Approx total $900-.

    Metropolitan Driveshafts: Same info re sizing of the 1300/1310 joints. Have data showing that the greasable 1300/1310 are weaker than the non-greasble options (but couldn't write down data). Dearer on the parts but would gladly reco a std shaft from outside parts. Approx $250- or $370- for overhaul with their unis plus $175- for centre ball. Important to note that they picked up that one of my caps was loose in the yoke, dismantled to demonstrate and noted that they would need to shrink and ream it back to shape/size. HS only said "It's stuffed, need new yoke assy welded onto the shaft and matching flange, nah they have to be a set" (of course diff end not the DC that needs doing anyway) and it's also the shaft side so I couldn't get away with only the flange replacement.

    Their first upgrade would be a 1310 as again it's the largest that fits the Rover transfer flange. Approx $550-

    Best upgrade interestingly was to go to a "Cornay" joint with an adaptor flange at the transfer end. They don't have the 25R joint as the Rover flange is unique to HS. The cornay joint is $2000-.

    Std uni part no's:
    Spicer K5-L4R (should be greasable)
    Matsuba 2275-B(344)
    GKN HS160 (TVC100010G)
    Precision 344
    Neapco1-0005
    ??? TVB000220

    Heavy Duty Part no's:
    Spicer K5-A757
    ??? TVC100010D

    Centre Ball part no's:
    Spicer SCV-082A (greasable)
    SCV-082B (greasable)

    Precision 617
    Neapco 7-0081NG


    HD 25R Toyo Double Cardan

    At the end of all discussions I presented the data and all info I could print out on the Tom Woods shafts and the pricing. Their was unanimous agreement that neither Spicers or Metro could match the strength or the angles of the joints (without going to extremes) and certainly not for the price. They both said go for the Woods shaft.

  6. #6
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    Hi guys. I work for Hardy Spicer in NSW. Moorebank and Beresfield. Need anything prop shaft wise call in for a Rover owner discount.

  7. #7
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    Removal of centre ball

    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  8. #8
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    Had to do the rear shaft today (both ends post uni conversion).

    Found the munters who replaced the auto did the flange nuts up to ridiculous spec, thought they'd stripped the threads. Eventually chiselled all 4 nuts off and found the bolts spinning. Yes, they'd rounded that heads off behind the flange. So flange out, replace bolts, reassemble.

    Then to add insult to injury the unis supplied were wrong, apparently there's narrow and wide versions and whatever model the rear shaft I used was off used wide ones. Bonus was they're half the price of narrow ones. Bad part only had one. So has to come out again to replace the non munted one.

    Bonus screw up, forgot to check the orientation of the unis (in/out of phase) and of course there's a vibration now. So D2, uni/uni rear shaft, in or out of phase?

  9. #9
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    My advice is if you can afford it get someone else to do a Double Cardan or buy a Tom Woods shaft. I have just finished one and not sure I would tackle it again as can be very frustrating. So much conflicting advice and videos that show every thing just slipping in, in reality quite different to that and took much more time than it should have. Front unis were not a problem and surprisingly second attempt at the unis on the rear of the Cardan went straight in with no real issues. Obviously I would be a lot more competent next time around.
    When assembled was very tight. Once greased right up was much better but still tight compared to the front uni. But installed and all is well. I found coating the end caps in lithium spray grease helped heaps with fitting.
    Hardie Spicer did advise that often when installed you need to give them a hard crack with a hammer to seat properly (not the caps, the actual cardan joint and flange).
    Also advised only minimal grease in unis while assembling (assuming greasable type) as excess grease can force needle rollers out on assembly. Then plenty of grease when assembled, usually 4 pumps each uni to fill.
    Hardie Spicer are the best to buy from as pricing is much better, but not practical for all.
    K5-A757 Greasable HD Unis current price is around $40 plus GST
    SCV-082B Ball Joint Greasable around $80
    I buy local where I can but when needed 1 additional was quoted $121 and some change each for the unis. Needless to say I drove the extra 50kms. Hardie Spicer advised max retail of $73-33.
    2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
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