Best way to adjust boost pressure

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

skip the blow off valve (thats a riceboy petrol thing you dont need it on a diesel and shorten the adjusting rod after you have a boost gauge that can handle 30+psi of boost wind er up then up the fuel after you get an EGT gauge.

---

I think the blow off valve is set for 30psi

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rovercare

Turbotech manual turbo boost controller- THE ORIGINAL! - eBay Turbo Parts, Performance Parts, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 03-Jul-10 06:05:07 AEST)

Ones like this work well

---

Are there any issues with this type of setup?, I've been running one of these for a couple of years now, on the flight deck of my County, and find it really handy to adjust boost on the run, or while heavy towing uphill. Of course I'm sure it's not legal, and not super efficient, because the fuel should be adjusted at the same time, but in current config, it does give higher boost - when the needle valve is wound out, is very easy to install, and cheap. It is also small and easy to hide in an accessable position. It can get a little noisy, in a nice kinda way:D, but it gives you the opportunity of higher boost/full military power when needed, then a return to standard, all while you drive.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 1103.9TDI

Are there any issues with this type of setup?, I've been running one of these for a couple of years now, on the flight deck of my County, and find it really handy to adjust boost on the run, or while heavy towing uphill. Of course I'm sure it's not legal, and not super efficient, because the fuel should be adjusted at the same time, but in current config, it does give higher boost - when the needle valve is wound out, is very easy to install, and cheap. It is also small and easy to hide in an accessable position. It can get a little noisy, in a nice kinda way:D, but it gives you the opportunity of higher boost/full military power when needed, then a return to standard, all while you drive.

---

Realistically, there is no need to adjust, as when you tune your diseaseal, you should have the boost to optimum efficient boost level, then add fuelling according to exhaust gas temps and your done, then just drive off the throttle, I just fit these as its a very simple way of controlling the wastegate and its set and forget when left in the engine bay

although, like V6 commodores with sports exhaust, it may have that added euphoria effect, when played with:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rar110

I think the blow off valve is set for 30psi

---

If you mean the factory vent on the manifold, mine started venting at 15psi. It no longer rides with me.
The part I don't get about adjustable boost controllers, is why would you ever want to reduce you peak boost?

It's not going to save you fuel (it will waste more), it's going to cut power and torque. I just don't get it.
If you want a "valet switch" to reduce power, then put a valve on the lin to the boost compensator on the fuel pump, drops power to just over non-turbo levels.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dougal

If you mean the factory vent on the manifold, mine started venting at 15psi. It no longer rides with me.
The part I don't get about adjustable boost controllers, is why would you ever want to reduce you peak boost?

It's not going to save you fuel (it will waste more), it's going to cut power and torque. I just don't get it.
If you want a "valet switch" to reduce power, then put a valve on the lin to the boost compensator on the fuel pump, drops power to just over non-turbo levels.

---

It's not factory, was included by the installer as a safety in case of excess boost. I'm sure he said it was at 30 or 35 psi. I generally hear it in btw gear changes. He said overboost was the main reason Nissan patrol diesels blew.

I bought the boost controller off eBay, will see how that goes. Also bought an Auber guage and 4 bar MAF. Dash will look like a Xmas tree with egt in red and boost in green coloured digits.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rar110

It's not factory, was included by the installer as a safety in case of excess boost. I'm sure he said it was at 30 or 35 psi. I generally hear it in btw gear changes. He said overboost was the main reason Nissan patrol diesels blew.

I bought the boost controller off eBay, will see how that goes. Also bought an Auber guage and 4 bar MAF. Dash will look like a Xmas tree with egt in red and boost in green coloured digits.

---

Got a picture of it? I just had a look for your build thread and couldn't find it. I think I have fridge blindness.
A lot of people think overboost is why ZD30's die, I think they're full of it. Overboost is the result of overfuelling and it's overfuelling which melts pistons.

I have a spring mounted inlet manifold which I think will start to vent at somewhere around 30-40psi boost. I need series turbocharging to get that high as a single turbo capable of that won't fit in my engine bay.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rar110

It's not factory, was included by the installer as a safety in case of excess boost. I'm sure he said it was at 30 or 35 psi. I generally hear it in btw gear changes. He said overboost was the main reason Nissan patrol diesels blew.

I bought the boost controller off eBay, will see how that goes. Also bought an Auber guage and 4 bar MAF. Dash will look like a Xmas tree with egt in red and boost in green coloured digits.

---

yes the mighty nissan engine...... the one with the bottom end that seems to be made out of tepid strudle when you compare it to something that rhymes with 4bd1.

dump the blow off valve and if it runs off of a switched pilot feed use that feed to actuate the wastegate valve, then tweak your fuel pump to how you like it (I suggest 650 preturbo at 15PSI as your max sustained temp/presure with 700 your maximum peak temp) and never worry about it again.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

yes the mighty nissan engine...... the one with the bottom end that seems to be made out of tepid strudle when you compare it to something that rhymes with 4bd1.

---

Nothing actually wrong with the 3L datto bottom end, its when the airflow packs is in, it fuels the crap out of it, making massive boost and power (relatively!) smart owners turned up and the mechanics would get complaints of, excessive performance:D

A 4BD1 will melt the pistons too.....but not seeing my mass airflow meter playing up anytime soon:eek:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rar110

It's not factory, was included by the installer as a safety in case of excess boost. I'm sure he said it was at 30 or 35 psi. I generally hear it in btw gear changes. He said overboost was the main reason Nissan patrol diesels blew.

I bought the boost controller off eBay, will see how that goes. Also bought an Auber guage and 4 bar MAF. Dash will look like a Xmas tree with egt in red and boost in green coloured digits.

---

Your installer is not quite with it! one, it won't hit that sort of boost with a mechanical pump turned up a bit, otherwise you'd be blowing a mass of soot and alot would be straight out your wastegate! and no, overboost doesn't kill engines, you can cram 160psi into a diesel, but you need the fuel to create the bang, to spin the spinny thing to make the boost:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rovercare

Nothing actually wrong with the 3L datto bottom end, its when the airflow packs is in, it fuels the crap out of it, making massive boost and power (relatively!) smart owners turned up and the mechanics would get complaints of, excessive performance:D

A 4BD1 will melt the pistons too.....but not seeing my mass airflow meter playing up anytime soon:eek:

---

yes but NOT from the overboost spike that happens when you go from full RPM full noise to full idle, something about a lack of fuel to make the heat.

(which you picked up on in your next post.....)

which is why I dont worry about the dump valve on diesels if the boost and fueling is sensible to being with.