TopicToaster
SubscriberAbout time I updated the thread.
Over a month since I last posted the progress, not a lot achieved visually, and many frustrating "backwards steps".
Engine sump:
I'd bought a wingless truck sump from a wrecker to give me room to run the turbo dump pipe down the side of the sump , but once it was fitted I found that the crank wouldn't turn as it hit on the shallow part of the sump. I'm guessing it was actually a 4BE1 sump. Unfortunately the wrecker didn't have another one to give me, so I ended up cutting the wing off my original sump and welding it back together. It actually finished up quite well.
Power steering pump:
The one I originally bought from a truck wrecker had the pressure outlet on the side, which interferes with the power steering box. After trying various different connections, and even moving the engine to the left slightly to get some more clearance I gave up and got another pump with the pressure outlet on the front. The second pump wasn't good internally, so I ended up swapping over the internals from the original one.
Bit more info here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...p-rebuild.html
Lesson learned....don't buy the pump with side outlet.
Once I had the pump and pressure hose sorted out the engine mounts were finally tacked in place and then welded (still have a couple of welds to finish off later once the engine is back out).
Radiator:
I tossed up whether to get one re-cored, or buy a $350 V8 one from eBay and get the inlet and outlet pipes relocated.
Ended up getting the ebay one, but when the radiator bloke went to move pipes, he found they were silver soldered in, so ended up having to pull the tanks off to do the job. Combined cost for purchase and modification was more than it would have been to get mine re-cored
FWIW, his assessment of the ebay radiator was that it was middle of the road quality wise - possibly originating from the middle east going by the style and fabrication.
Air filter brackets have been fabricated from some angle iron, and after seeing where factory ones have cracked around the single mounting hole, I modified them to pick up on an additional hole further up the block (as well as the original bolt on the flywheel housing). Hopefully this will prevent the flexing and fatigue around the original mount bolt.
The mounting bands for the filter are Fleetguard ones from a truck supplies place near work - around $15 each.
Fitted a spin-on fuel filter, and have made the spacers for the spin-on oil filter housing. Not quite finished but almost:
Trial fitted the VNT turbo with the top-mount T25 manifold, but not enough clearance to the bonnet.
Normal T25 turbo has good amount of clearance, but the VNT has a bigger housing and also required an adapter plate as its got an unusual 3-bolt flange (its off a BMW X5). Wasn't going to fit without cutting a hole in the bonnet..
Decided to bite the bullet and order the same Isuzu angled manifold as a few others here have used. Noice - but how do I get the preserving wax off so I can paint it??
Just waiting on a counter-bore to arrive now so I can finish the adapter plates, trial mount the turbo and sort out the oil lines for it.
Flywheel has been machined, and a new friction plate and pressure plate ordered.
Tomorrows first job is to extend the front bump stops.
With the springs removed and full weight sitting on the standard bump stops, there was 180mm between the spring faces. Allowing for another 20mm compression in a dynamic situation, that gives 160mm - which coincidentally is also the length of the standard springs when fully compressed.
The Dobinson springs I'm fitting are just over 200mm fully compressed, so I'll just do the standard 40mm bump stop extension that the factory Isuzu's had. Nice to know that the dimension makes sense though.
Steve
Master
Hi Steve good to see it coming along bummer about the exhaust manifold looks like I'm in the same boat with that one, damn. Know how you feel bit two forward one back can get frustrating. Still drove Dannys isuzu County on Friday and we will like em when we get there. Stay positive catch up for the turbo rebuild day, let us know when your ready to go.
Kindest regards
Garry
R.I.P.
Looking good Steve......we'll have to have an Isuzu Day when it's finished
Cheers
Danny
TopicToaster
SubscriberThanks Danny.
Isuzu Day sounds great...
Steve
TopicToaster
SubscriberMade a bit of progress today on the turbo install.
I needed to clock the turbine housing to get the oil feed pipe at the top, but found a distinct lack of info on the internet about these particular turbos (GT2256V from BMW X5).
The info about other VNT turbos suggested it was a simple matter of drilling a new hole for the locating pin in the housing, but unfortunately this one is different.
I've found some info tonight suggesting the only way to do it properly is to drill/tap new mounting holes for the nozzle, but that also requires fabricating a new bracket for the actuator. Will have to look into it further.
I ended up just undoing the 3 bolts that attach the nozzle into the turbine housing and rotating it 120deg. Not perfect, but the oil feed is at least NEAR the top now, and the actuator is no longer hitting the manifold
Here's a piccy of the inside of the turbine housing, with the slot for the actuator arm circled in red.
Once that was done, I could dummy fit the turbo and fabricate the dump pipe:
Steve
OldBushie
Steve, Matt and i have the GT2260vnt's, off the Iveco daily 3litres, and pretty sure the bmw x5's aswell, ours is just a matter of redrilling the hole for the dowl pin to clock it.
By the looks of it your dump pipe bolts on? We have to make a flange up with a clamp around it which is a bit more stuffing around
TopicToaster
SubscriberYes, my dump pipe bolts on, but its not a flat flange its a conical shape so I can assure you there was as fair bit of stuffing around to get it to that stage.
A flange with a clamp would have be WAAAYY easier
The hassle with my turbo is that there is no locating dowel as such, and that the nozzle vanes are in 3 groups of 4 - not evenly spaced like most of them - so you cant just clock it by a vane spacing, re-pin and move the actuator ring.
Seems the only way to do it properly is to re-drill the 3 small attachment bolts that hold the nozzle assy to the housing...
Probably a bigger hassle is I think mines got a vacuum actuator, rather than a pressure one drive off boost. Need to double check tonight...
Steve
ChatterBox
SubscriberOriginally Posted by kaa45
Looking good Steve......we'll have to have an Isuzu Day when it's finished
Cheers
DannyComing along nicely Steve.
Yeah, an Isuzu Landy day sounds like a good idea. Hopefully Rob will be back on the road soon and Gary is close to getting stuck into his conversion too.
Cheers, Murray
'88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
'85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
'56 SI Ute Cab
TopicToaster
SubscriberThought I finally had my spin-on filter spacers finished today after tapping the upper spacer for a pipe fitting to supply the turbo, and getting some longer bolts to attach it with.
Alas, when I went to fit it, the bolts wouldn't go in
Turns out the original pipe flange has the holes at a smaller pitch than the spin-on filter pipe. Just enough to be annoying (42mm vs 45mm for the spin-on pipe).
Not a good photo, but you get the idea. Its the upper end that attaches to the oil cooler. LH holes in are lined up in the photo, original pipe at the rear:
Anyone else found this difference?
Thankfully there is enough material/clearance to move the holes in by 1.5mm each side. I'll just file the pipe flange or hit it with the die grinder, but the 50mm aluminium spacer is going to be a bit more hassle. Might drill a bit of thickish steel plate to use as a guide to stop the drill going sideways.
Anyone got a better suggestion?
Steve
ForumSage
Subscriber
Sell the spacer to me and make another one.
My bolt spacing is 45mm. However, mine are 88/89 model motors with virtical spin on filter.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
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