Thread: LT95 bellhousing removal

Sounds like your doing what ive done a few times now last time i posted up a thread and some pic's of it in tech chat .

The front plate and bellhousing are both held in place by the bolts in the front of the box , the bell housing will seperate from front plate my nees a lever to get them apart .

Is the box out of the truck if so prop it up so the input shaft is pointing skyward makes the job easyer .

If you are fixing a worn or broken clutch fork pivot post hole i found it best to weld the broken bit back on and then remount the pin with extra support .

What i did was to weld a threaded section onto the bottom of the pivot and made it stick through the mount then fastened it in with a nut and washer i had to grind 2 flat sides on the washer to fit in the casting this gave it more support but i wanted bullet proof as this was the second housing id busted .

I welded a flat bar support of the side of the pin and made it step down onto the flat section of the housing beside the pin and then bolted this through the housing with a M10 stainless bolt and nyloc nut .

This made the pivot point super strong and its never missed a beat since i will have a look and see if i can find the pic's as it was a few years back now when i did the fix

Lokka,
"I welded a flat bar support of the side of the pin and made it step down onto the flat section of the housing beside the pin and then bolted this through the housing with a M10 stainless bolt and nyloc nut" quote .

Fred Smith, here in Melb, does that as a Rolls Royce improvement. Otherewise he uses Locktite to secure them. I had a heck of a time as someone used a Range Rover pin on mine & they are shorter. I lengthened the pushrod, not knowing the problem, but it then it didn't have enough throw. Gearbox went in and out 3 times before we realized the error..-
I bought the bellhousing off Fred..

And, I've done 3 LT95 rebuilds now & never used the guage.

Originally Posted by DeeJay

Lokka,
"I welded a flat bar support of the side of the pin and made it step down onto the flat section of the housing beside the pin and then bolted this through the housing with a M10 stainless bolt and nyloc nut" quote .

Fred Smith, here in Melb, does that as a Rolls Royce improvement. Otherewise he uses Locktite to secure them. I had a heck of a time as someone used a Range Rover pin on mine & they are shorter. I lengthened the pushrod, not knowing the problem, but it then it didn't have enough throw. Gearbox went in and out 3 times before we realized the error..-
I bought the bellhousing off Fred..

And, I've done 3 LT95 rebuilds now & never used the guage.

Here is a couple of pics of one with the pivot pin lenghtened and secured behind with a nyloc nut. Never comes loose again. You can either get a new one machined up or weld a bolt shank to the pivot and then drill the pivot hole right through the housing , loctite and secure with the nut. All pivots are the same length (V8 land or rangie and Isuzu). Part number is R594176.

Originally Posted by Bearman

All pivots are the same length (V8 land or rangie and Isuzu). Part number is R594176.

Now I'm wondering what the shorter one was that was in my bellhousing ?? I just looked at a Rangie LT95 in my garage & the pin looks the same as the Isuzu (as you say). Fred - if my memory serves me well - said a Rangie,,

Thanks for the good info everyone, and the great piccy's Brian.
Also great to know that the gauge isn't critical.

Removing the front plate looks pretty straightforward in the overhaul manual - any tricks to it?
I've got a gasket set here so may as well fit it...

Lokka - the box is out of the car so I'll stand it up as you've suggested.

Steve

Steve,
you will find that the layshaft will come out with the sandwich plate. This is because the synchro dogs on the spigot shaft prevent the layshaft from disconnecting until you get it far enough out. When you refit it you have to mate the layshaft back with the spigot shaft gear and fit it all as 1. Takes a bit of jiggling sometimes. You have to be careful the 4th synchro ring doesn't dislocate and the front mainshaft roller bearing stays in place while you are doing this. A bit of grease on these two and the box standing vertical helps them stay in place. PM me if you need any more assistance when you get to this stage. While you have it out I would check the 2 front mainshaft ball bearing retaining plates for warpage or slop. If you can move the spigot shaft in/out at all there is some play there that must be removed. Usually it is the plates have been bent or strained from someone trying to bolt the gearbox to the engine without lining the spigot shaft up with the spigot bush properly. You can bend them back into place unless they are badly scored by rotation of the outer race of the front ball bearing. Any slop here causes hard gear selection. Hope this all make sense

Thanks Brian - I think it makes sense but need to read again with the box in front of me to confirm....

Thanks also for the assistance offer. I think I'll put this one on the back burner for a bit while I concentrate on getting the pivot pin repair done, and my engine mounts fabricated.

Steve