The new tourer...

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Originally Posted by slug_burner

What do you gain by going to the 110 from the RRC? wheelbase and a bit more clearance?

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G'day Slug,

Well it's a bit more complicated than that.

There is the strength of a 110 chassis and the lack of rubber body mounts / ridgid body that causes cracking and fatigue over time. The extra interior room and 'boxy' shape that is excellent for packing gear into:twisted:.

The fact that the corners of the vehicle are visible from the drivers seat, and the driving position gives you a good view of the road and surroundings.

The down sides are comfort and noise/ harshness. The Rangie even with the suzi engine was still very quiet on the highway, I anticipate the 110 will be a bit more noisy...:(.

The ergonomics are being addressed at the moment, a D1 park brake has been fitted next to the Stratos suspension drivers seat - which has been moved 30mm away from the door to allow more elbow room, as has the passenger seat- a D1 passenger seat. Still to sort out the rear seating but that is for later.


Last, but not least, I have always wanted a real Landy with galv cappings, old door handles, and a diesel engine:D


Overall I am quite excited to change vehicles:)

JC

Looks great JC :)

What heater box are you using? does it need the big squire hole in the firewall?

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Originally Posted by flagg

Looks great JC :)

What heater box are you using? does it need the big squire hole in the firewall?

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Hi flagg, using a Defender one, the hole already in the bulkhead is the same size as the hole in the dash, the hole from the heater is bigger, but not by much. Are there differences in County ones? The Defender dash I have has the same size hole that is already in the bulkhead.

JC

Hi JC
When you used the D1 H/Brake lever,did you use the bracket on the transfer case from a D1 also?or the rangie one?
What is the H/Brake unit from?
I'm just interested in doing this to mine,but with the county bracket on the transfer I would have a far bend in the cable,also is the shorter H/Brake lever going to have enough leverage on the large county H/Brake?
Jim.

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Originally Posted by yt110

Hi JC
When you used the D1 H/Brake lever,did you use the bracket on the transfer case from a D1 also?or the rangie one?
What is the H/Brake unit from?
I'm just interested in doing this to mine,but with the county bracket on the transfer I would have a far bend in the cable,also is the shorter H/Brake lever going to have enough leverage on the large county H/Brake?
Jim.

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Hi Jim. When I fitted the County 110 LT95 to my RRC originally, I used the LT230 park brake backing plate, drum and cable etc from the late RR, mine was a 1992. This removes that ridiculous bracket etc that the 110 has. I just fitted a 1994 onwards D1 model (full length)cable, and lever. The leverage is way better than the Early D1 with the bracket and linkage arrangement, in fact it feels just as good as the Defender one:)

JC

Nice work and interesting turbo set up.

Looking good Justin, following the progress with interest

(even though it means I have to come in this funny truck section lol )

nice work justin I am loving the photos :) I would say putting my IC in was the hardest part of the job due to the size of it (600x300x3"thick) ...I am thinking of some sort of water spray for the IC just as an experiment ? Even though I have noticed that by placing my hand on the IC inlet piping and on the outlet the temp difference is huge :o just can't seem to find air temp guages that range from 0°c to say 100°c I was thinking of putting one in inlet piping and one in outlet piping??

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Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

........Even though I have noticed that by placing my hand on the IC inlet piping and on the outlet the temp difference is huge :o just can't seem to find air temp guages that range from 0°c to say 100°c I was thinking of putting one in inlet piping and one in outlet piping??

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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/01/273.jpg

I bought one of these >>>> Digital Thermometer with 2 K-Type Thermocouple Sensors <<<< and it works really well. I mounted it on the dash with some velcro, but I had to get some longer thermocouple leads to reach into the engine bay. I used the leads with the bare ends and tucked them under the silicone hoses into the air flow, one post turbo/pre IC and one post IC/pre intake manifold.
I have a bigger IC, yet to be fitted, so I was curious to see what the actual performance of the current IC was to compare it with the new bigger one when I put it in.
The good thing with these digital thermometers is a function that displays the temp difference between the two leads, ie pre and post IC. With my current IC the temp drops ~80*-90* with heavy throttle up a long hill.
You might need something that reads more than 100*. The highest pre IC temp I've recorded is 140*.
Here's an example......

Boost 15psi
EGT 645
Amb temp 15*
Pre IC 140*
Post IC 55*
Difference 85*

Cheers, Murray

Id like to see how you have fitted the D1 seat as i may do the same with mine as i have some spare D1 seats that are in good condition tho the only down side that i can for see is access to the seat box compartments tho a hinge system could be invented :twisted: