Thread: The new tourer...

Looks great JC

What heater box are you using? does it need the big squire hole in the firewall?

Originally Posted by flagg

Looks great JC

What heater box are you using? does it need the big squire hole in the firewall?

Hi flagg, using a Defender one, the hole already in the bulkhead is the same size as the hole in the dash, the hole from the heater is bigger, but not by much. Are there differences in County ones? The Defender dash I have has the same size hole that is already in the bulkhead.

JC

Hi JC
When you used the D1 H/Brake lever,did you use the bracket on the transfer case from a D1 also?or the rangie one?
What is the H/Brake unit from?
I'm just interested in doing this to mine,but with the county bracket on the transfer I would have a far bend in the cable,also is the shorter H/Brake lever going to have enough leverage on the large county H/Brake?
Jim.

Originally Posted by yt110

Hi JC
When you used the D1 H/Brake lever,did you use the bracket on the transfer case from a D1 also?or the rangie one?
What is the H/Brake unit from?
I'm just interested in doing this to mine,but with the county bracket on the transfer I would have a far bend in the cable,also is the shorter H/Brake lever going to have enough leverage on the large county H/Brake?
Jim.

Hi Jim. When I fitted the County 110 LT95 to my RRC originally, I used the LT230 park brake backing plate, drum and cable etc from the late RR, mine was a 1992. This removes that ridiculous bracket etc that the 110 has. I just fitted a 1994 onwards D1 model (full length)cable, and lever. The leverage is way better than the Early D1 with the bracket and linkage arrangement, in fact it feels just as good as the Defender one

JC

Nice work and interesting turbo set up.

Looking good Justin, following the progress with interest

(even though it means I have to come in this funny truck section lol )

nice work justin I am loving the photos I would say putting my IC in was the hardest part of the job due to the size of it (600x300x3"thick) ...I am thinking of some sort of water spray for the IC just as an experiment ? Even though I have noticed that by placing my hand on the IC inlet piping and on the outlet the temp difference is huge just can't seem to find air temp guages that range from 0°c to say 100°c I was thinking of putting one in inlet piping and one in outlet piping??

Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

........Even though I have noticed that by placing my hand on the IC inlet piping and on the outlet the temp difference is huge just can't seem to find air temp guages that range from 0°c to say 100°c I was thinking of putting one in inlet piping and one in outlet piping??

I bought one of these >>>> Digital Thermometer with 2 K-Type Thermocouple Sensors <<<< and it works really well. I mounted it on the dash with some velcro, but I had to get some longer thermocouple leads to reach into the engine bay. I used the leads with the bare ends and tucked them under the silicone hoses into the air flow, one post turbo/pre IC and one post IC/pre intake manifold.
I have a bigger IC, yet to be fitted, so I was curious to see what the actual performance of the current IC was to compare it with the new bigger one when I put it in.
The good thing with these digital thermometers is a function that displays the temp difference between the two leads, ie pre and post IC. With my current IC the temp drops ~80*-90* with heavy throttle up a long hill.
You might need something that reads more than 100*. The highest pre IC temp I've recorded is 140*.
Here's an example......

Boost 15psi
EGT 645
Amb temp 15*
Pre IC 140*
Post IC 55*
Difference 85*

Cheers, Murray