This thread might be worth a read: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-ch...as-closed.html
There is another longer thread on this, but I can't find it (yet)....
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This thread might be worth a read: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-ch...as-closed.html
There is another longer thread on this, but I can't find it (yet)....
Agreed hence my suggestion to run a dedicated engine pump activated by a clutch. A PTO does not seem the best as you're driving the pump with your gearbox which then brings gearing into the equation. I'm thinking winching while driving from an engine pump is better than a PTO as you need to think pump pressure and matching to forward motion. I could however just be thinking out load and it could be a non issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by clubagreenie
Excellent, so MR can do the adapter for the pump :DQuote:
Originally Posted by spudboy
Might help a few people.
I am actually investigating running a 12v electric motor driving a hydraulic pump located inside the cabin behind the seats. Like the type a lot of trucks use to raise canopies etc. Gets the electric motor out of the weather, with a hydraulic winch - best of both worlds. Don't need the engine running to winch either. Just currently doing some research on size of pumps etc required.
Regards... David
I wouldn't be worried about the size of the pump, the size of the motor and bellhousing/coupling assy will be the killer. Tfr drive really is the best option. There's a reason that every tilt tray is driven that way, simplicity. Gearing will only effect flow, but with a hyd winch I wouldn't think you'd make the effort to try to drive with it. I certainly didn't when I had a shaft driven PTO on a SII. Trial and error, plus judicious application of needle valves and return lines could be designed in but you'd make it far more complicated and add so many fail points & every use is different so you'd constantly be playing with it to try to match speeds.
Another consideration (for the "power user" is to fit an accumulator, this would give some reserve pressure storage in case your engine did die (have to calculate appropriate volume vs winching capacity) but this might also be good for those considering the elec pump route, so the pump can cut in & out only repressurising the accumulator and the winch uses stored pressure.
At the end of the day you still have to provide at least the same power to the electric motor and are subject to the same duty cycle issues as you would for an electric winch - you just have a hydraulic system and associated losses in between.Quote:
Originally Posted by twisted leader
I can't see that the advantage of keeping the electric motor out of the weather would compensate for for the extra cost, weight and complexity.
Is there something else that I'm missing?
Steve
Steve
No your not missing anything. I have access to a hydraulic winch and 12v hydraulic pump so I am looking into it. My brother works in the hydraulics industry so knows all the tricks etc so he would set it up for me. I saw a similar system on a Patrol some years ago and it was very effective.
David
We have a few electric 12V hydraulic set up at work, complete pain in the back side they are to.
Blackwoods have hydraulic winches in there catalog. a PTO drive wouldn’t be hard to broche up( if broaching is what’s needed)..ill get on to it after I put the dash back in, sort out the drive train, swap over the tanny brake. rebuild the LT95. fit the turbo, rebuild the rollover bars/ cargo barrier, fit the front locker. Recover the seats. sort out why the spoties aren’t working then do the rear engine seal. shouldn’t take that long.
Just saw this hydraulic winch setup on eBay. Red winch from the UK. Pretty pricey, starting at $3000 and going up to $7000.
Land Rover hydraulic winch...CHECK THIS OUT (eBay item 190506568385 end time 09-Mar-11 14:14:30 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats
Cheers
David