Thread: What $ for a good 110 Factory 4BD1T

I thought there were no factory turbo models in the 4x4's, only the 6x6's.

The quality of aftermarket turbo conversions will vary, but any is better than none and it's easier to upgrade an existing turbo conversion than to start from scratch.

Hi Doogs

I realise that the 4BD1T was not a factory fit to the 110 , I meant
a vehicle where someone had retro fitted an OE 4BD1T to replace their 4BD1.
I see alot of bods have retrofitted Turbos to a 4BD1 succesfully

This seems to work okay in the main but I detect a thread of potential for overheating.

I remember reading way back (and someone reminded me the other day) about the 4BD1T having different fuel galleries for the feed and this in some way lending an in piston chamber cooling effect that compensated for the Turbo. ( At least I think that's it)

I suppose my concern is for the example of towing a 2 tonne load into Ouyen on a 45 degree day.

Someone had posted that with a retrofit Turbo 4BD1 it may have to be nursed along in hot weather.

Yes the factory turbo (truck motors) have oil squirters underneath the pistons.

It's not an engine overheat issue, it's more keeping the EGT's a bit lower on the non turbo motors. I haven't managed to blow a hole in the chinese pistons in my 4BD1T with EGT's sometimes hitting 900C, but I wouldn't like to do that on a non turbo motor.

I believe the RSFV perentie 110s had 4BD1T engines???

However on topic - it is a non-issue. There were a few minor changes between turbo and non turbo perenties, the most major of which was the piston oil squirters.

However, back in the days when my egt's were higher (before I turned up the boost), I did the nullarbor at ~130km/h into a strong headwind, heavily loaded, sitting on ~700-750 egts the whole way (750oC is maxc egt spec for 4BD1T). I didn't melt a piston.

If I was buying an engine to fit to a vehicle though, I would buy a late model 4BD1T. I have seen them sell for anywhere between $700 and $7000.

The way I see it, turbo motors don't run hotter peak cylinder temperatures, but the average cylinder temperature is higher due to the charge air heating and higher exhaust manifold pressure.

How much higher would take a lot of calculations or some involved measuring, but I'd hazard a guess at 100C hotter mean temp. Enough that turbo motors generally need bigger ring gaps too.

I think it's better the devil you know, so unless you have some big expenses for your own 110 coming up I would either fit a turbo set up to your 110 or buy a turbo motor. I have seen a rebuilt motor for $4000 no exchange.

Really well looked after 110 county's are rare as they are getting old now and they were generally bought for hard work.

I think my ideal land rover would be a 130, gal chassis + firewall, 4Bd1T with either lt95 or Grubb MSA box, with a few other army/county/mods or bits.

Sorry if a bit off topic.

i am thinking of getting rid of my county,

It all depends on condition.. Isuzu 110s are all getting pretty old now and you wouldn't have one unless you were going to use it.

I've seen a couple of gems (wasn't quick enough to take possession of them though ) but when I was looking a couple of years ago, most were not dogs.. but very rough.

It seemed that all of them needed new doors, a gearbox rebuilt and a lot of tidying up.

There was one advertised here a while back that looked in pretty good condition.. had had a lot spent on it (gearbox etc) but even it needed new door frames etc.

I gave myself a budget of $20k including cost of 110 itself for my completed project. Each one I saw I just worked out the cost of what needed to be done, and what I wanted to add and that's how I eventually chose.

I didn't find any 110s with a factory 4BD1T.. a couple of retrofitted ones but at the time these ones had other issues that needed a lot of work so I ended up with an nonturbo.. I'll add one when I'm ready and cashed up.