Battery light

**steveG** · 29th June 2011, 04:37 PM

Originally Posted by ScottW

If I get the alternator rebuilt, is there something I should be doing to the vac pump as well to ensure the oil stays where it's supposed to? There are no signs of leaking oil on the alternator.

I'm not sure what amps the current alternator is.

Do you have a link to the US alternator replacement? A search on here only gives the 120 amp hitachi part number, which is overkill and too many $$$.

That doesn't sound quite right - if there are no signs of oil then how can the auto-elec be saying its the oil that killed the brushes.

I haven't had the vac pump apart, but I'm guessing they are just a vane pump and there will be an oil seal on the shaft that goes into the alternator.
If he's quoted you $300 to rebuild then that should either include sorting the oil leak in the pump as its part of the alternator assy, or telling you you'll need to fix the pump as a separate job. Otherwise you're going to be up for another rebuild in 18 months time if thats whats caused it.

Standard alternator is a Denso 40A external regulator model.
Search on eBay for "4bd1 alternator" and there are plenty of aftermarket ones - most seem to be 70A, with internal regulator.
Haven't bought one myself, as mine was OK with new brushes/bearings.

Steve

**ScottW** · 29th June 2011, 07:52 PM

My current alternator looks very similar to this: Ebay Alternator

I think I'd prefer one properly rebuilt rather than another cheap and nasty one.

I'm not sure if the current alternator has an internal regulator or not. The wiring harness has been taped up, so it's modified. Does anyone have a pic of the regulator?

I'll have a decent look on the weekend, and poke around with the multi-meter. Until then, I am fine driving to work and it seems to charge in bursts of 5 mins here and there.

**steveG** · 29th June 2011, 09:56 PM

The one in this photo is an original 40A external regulator type.

Pretty sure all the internal regulator ones have the output on the rear.

Steve

**land864** · 29th June 2011, 10:47 PM

Scott. I have just had mine done with an upgrade to an 80 amp Nippon Denso with inbuilt reg.

I will take some pics and get a model number for you tomorrow night

pete

**land864** · 30th June 2011, 11:00 AM

In the meantime , make sure all your fuses are good.

Not just visually. Put a tester on both sides of the glass fuses to ensure voltage

**ScottW** · 1st July 2011, 07:27 AM

It seems to be charging more than it's not charging. And turning right at round-a-bouts seems to start it charging again if it stops...

Here's some bad pics of the alternator:

I'm not sure if it is internally regulated or not.

The plug going into it has 3 wires. Black, a white/green and a white/black I think.

Is there a way to 'hot wire' the alternator that forces it to charge? Then if it stops charging, I can see if it's because of the laternator or the wiring harness.

**ScottW** · 3rd July 2011, 11:24 AM

Had a chance to follow the wires today. So much easier in daylight. I found the regulator, which also appears newish so it's an external regulated job. I have a multi-meter and a test light. Does anyone have any pointers on how to determine if the regulator or alternator is the one playing up?

Cheers
Scott

**ScottW** · 4th July 2011, 05:47 PM

I got a quote for a replacement 4bd1-t alternator and a rodeo alternator from AEA. They are 70 amp and 80 amp internal regulated jobs. Price is over $500 :O
Can anyone recommend a cheaper replacement? Which ones are good/bad on the US ebay shops?

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