Reply With QuoteSounds a bit like you might need a new set of brushes in the alternator although they usually flicker a few times before throwing in the towel.
Master
I was driving home last night when the battery light came on. The volt gauge dropped to left of centre as well. I was thinking all sorts of bad things when a few minutes later the light went off and things went back to normal.
This morning going to work it was all good until one point when I was braking and the light came back on for 10 seconds. Then later decelerating through the gears it happened again and twice more through the tight windy road to the carpark, so looks like a loose connection somewhere.
Where should I be looking for bad connections? I'm assuming it's the signal wire on the alternator that's playing up. Where does this wire run to? Does anyone have a wiring diagram? The car is a 1988 County.
The alternator and battery were new when I got the car. (it had a major current drain that would flatten everything overnight)
TopicToaster
Sounds a bit like you might need a new set of brushes in the alternator although they usually flicker a few times before throwing in the towel.
Cheers......Brian
1985 110 V8 County
1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)
RoverLord
Check the fan belt tension - it needs to be fairly tight or the belt will slip on the alternator, particularly with a bit of moisture.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Master
Just did is on the way home, along a sweeping corner. It always seems to happen well into the trip, not at the start when its charging most. I'm about to have a poke around under the bonnet.
Edit:
Just fired it up again and the battery light was on. Tried wriggling everything at the alternator and it made no difference, but the wires disappear into the wiring harness so I can' see where they go.
The alternator is only 18 months old. Brushes should last longer than that.
ChatterBox
My battery light occasionally flashes when I put the right indicator on and sometimes when I brake. I'm convinced it has a bad earth somewhere unless anybody here knows different.
Master
Took the car to an auto elec today. He reckons the vac pump has leaked oil and killed the brushes, so it'll need a rebuild. Quoted $300 to do it all. I wouldn't have thought there'd be much oil in there. Could the return line get blocked and cause this?
I've only had this car for 18 months and this is the 2nd thing I've had to fix. I thought these isuzus were supposed to be reliable.
TopicToaster
The Isuzu is, it's the rest of the car thats tired
TopicToaster
SubscriberAftermarket 70A alternators are only about that price delivered from the US. Might be useful upgrade.Originally Posted by ScottW
Took the car to an auto elec today. He reckons the vac pump has leaked oil and killed the brushes, so it'll need a rebuild. Quoted $300 to do it all. I wouldn't have thought there'd be much oil in there. Could the return line get blocked and cause this?
I've only had this car for 18 months and this is the 2nd thing I've had to fix. I thought these isuzus were supposed to be reliable.
Probably the previous rebuild only touched the alternator itself, and simply unbolted the vacuum pump. The oil supply to the pump is the same one that can be Tee'd into and used for turbo supply - so plenty of volume available.
Steve
Master
If I get the alternator rebuilt, is there something I should be doing to the vac pump as well to ensure the oil stays where it's supposed to? There are no signs of leaking oil on the alternator.
I'm not sure what amps the current alternator is.
Do you have a link to the US alternator replacement? A search on here only gives the 120 amp hitachi part number, which is overkill and too many $$$.
Master
Italics = sarcasmThe Isuzu is, it's the rest of the car thats tired
The other thing that broke was the bearings in the LT85
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