Intermittent crunching noise

Looks like you were on the money with suggesting it might be wheel bearings.

Both rear wheels had a slight bit of play when rocking them, but were nice and smooth to rotate. When I pulled the dustcap off the RH rear, there were signs of moisture/rust so I pulled the whole hub off to check it.

This is what I found:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/09/730.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/09/731.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/09/732.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/09/733.jpg

Bearings are still quite smooth, but the inner one has definitely been spinning against the stub land and making nice flakes.
Hopefully that's the cause of the problem. Will pick up a couple of sets of bearings tomorrow.
Anyone confirm the Timken #'s are LM603049/LM603011 (they're worn off the cones I just removed and I haven't removed the cups).

Steve

Got everything back together this morning with new bearings and seals etc.

All happy and hopeful I was heading into town ..... until "crunch" - the noise came back again. Bugger :(

Dropped the oil in the front diff and found it had extras...so pulled the diff out. Its definitely not happy. The cross pin hole has elongated by about 3mm so its been like that for a while. The 20mm long piece of shaft that's broken off is what was causing the noise as it got between the crownwheel and diff housing and smashing the corners off the crownwheel teeth in the process.
Maybe also explains how it tended to happen more around left bends.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/09/674.jpg

Guess I've got some decisions to make now...

Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveG

Got everything back together this morning with new bearings and seals etc.

All happy and hopeful I was heading into town ..... until "crunch" - the noise came back again. Bugger :(

Dropped the oil in the front diff and found it had extras...so pulled the diff out. Its definitely not happy. The cross pin hole has elongated by about 3mm so its been like that for a while. The 20mm long piece of shaft that's broken off is what was causing the noise as it got between the crownwheel and diff housing and smashing the corners off the crownwheel teeth in the process.
Maybe also explains how it tended to happen more around left bends.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/09/674.jpg

Guess I've got some decisions to make now...

Steve

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Locker time:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rovercare

Locker time:D

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Definitely what I'd like to do, just trying to get my head around what else I'd need to go with it. Since its currently 10 spline I guess it would be new axles and a 24 spline locker.
But the drive flange splines are also quite worn on my CV's, so do I go all out and do the front end once and for all?
And if I do, do I stick with the county style CV's, (either standard or Ashcroft), or put in a longtracks set....

Unfortunately :angel: I have an early D1 10 spline rear diff which would should just bolt straight in...

Steve

I changed over to a Trutrack fine spline with new shafts but kept the same cv. I like the fit & forget aspect. I've been very happy with the improved traction but won't be as good as a locker. But for my driving I found it the best value for money. Down the track I will fit a rear locker probably. Although as I haven't been bogged since the front end upgrade I'm tempted to just go another trutrack.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rar110

I changed over to a Trutrack fine spline with new shafts but kept the same cv. I like the fit & forget aspect. I've been very happy with the improved traction but won't be as good as a locker. But for my driving I found it the best value for money. Down the track I will fit a rear locker probably. Although as I haven't been bogged since the front end upgrade I'm tempted to just go another trutrack.

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Good to hear the Truetrac goes OK. I've only ever had open diffs so can only try and take from others experience.
I'm still undecided as to whether to go for a full locker, or just a limited slip (TT or Ashcroft ATB ).
As for axles/CV's, I really like the look of the Longtracks setup, but not so keen on fitting the narrower hubs/stubs required. Price-wise its about the same to do the Longtracks, or to do HiTough/Rovertracks axles with new CV's (not upgraded Ashcrofts etc), but the Longtracks CV's are stronger. Have excluded Ashcroft CV's due to cost and complete overkill for what I'm doing.
At this stage I'm leaning towards just doing the axles and replacement CV's.

I've also got a Detroit sitting in the shed for the rear diff once I get some decent axles to go with it, so that will sort out the back end. This front diff issue has delayed that a bit :(

Steve

I upgraded to a 24 spline Ashcroft ATB limited slip centre, with Rovertracks (Now Rovingtracks) axles and kept the standard CVs/flanges.
Having done the same (rocky/soft soil) track in the same conditions before and after installing the ATB I can definately say it makes a difference, again not as effective as a full locker, but at least it allows you to steer as wel as increasing traction!
It has made the steering a little heavier, but I was used to it by the end of the first drive.
LSDs look after CVs better to some extent as they lessen the shock loads that open diffs give and obviously aren't as harsh as a locker is when trying to turn when engaged.

Cheers Mark - the ATB is currently out of stock so not an option for me.
I've decided to get one of their air lockers and some Rovingtracks axles.

Steve