At least the bypass filter is still there!
If you machine up a 60mm spacer for the oil filter housing it will clear the diff/propshaft.
There are a few threads on here with pics.
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At least the bypass filter is still there!
If you machine up a 60mm spacer for the oil filter housing it will clear the diff/propshaft.
There are a few threads on here with pics.
i got new head bolts in my rebuild kit and talked to the supplier and they said that the head bolts cannot be reused the manual says to torque up then yield them 90 degreesQuote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
this is what come out of the manual i am using
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/01/394.jpg
i am not using a land rover lt95 so i don't have that nice long bell housing if i was to put a spacer on it the filter would still foul on the fire wall so i might try hunt around for a remote filter set up.Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
I believe Dave_S has a remote filter adaptor he isn't using...Quote:
Originally Posted by bushhack
Alternately, the z333 is small, you could always clearance the firewall - though it may mean you need to have an access hole from the cab to change the filter :D
Interesting that the engine is for far back. Some pics of the engine bay would be appreciated once it is back in. What does the weight balance feel like on gravel roads?
interesting ill see if the smaller one fits. the tail shaft does foul up on the bypass filter but only just. it has a dent on the filter but that can be fixed by a larger bump stop. i do remember reading some place the the standard isuzu landrovers had longer bump stops any one with a factory one ??Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
with the motor so far back it handles really well. gravel? mmm well... turbo and part time 4wd = fun ! :D
Z333 is the standard full flow filter. They are quite small.Quote:
Originally Posted by bushhack
Yes the OEM isuzu setups have a ~1" bump stop spacer welded to the chassis. I can take a pic if you want?
I see that in the manuals here too. I'm still looking for the statement about reusing head bolts. I have been torquing mine to 90 ft-lb and retorquing after the first heat/cool. It works for me but I can't find any official source of this 90 ft-lb. Originally copied I believe from some chart or book belonging to a local engine reconditioner.Quote:
Originally Posted by bushhack
hey guys question i got hold of a tb2568 which was fitted to a 4bd2 does any one know where i would get hold of a flange plate to weld exhaust to. or even the part number for the dump pipe that bolts on to the rear of the turbo.
i asked at a local truck parts place but they need to have vin numbers to even start looking for a part!
It should be a standard T25 5 bolt exit flange. The garrett turbo pdf's have the flange dimensions in the back to confirm.