i think there may be a need for a format
Brand
Flange
AR
AR
manifold
out let Dia
etc something like that
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i think there may be a need for a format
Brand
Flange
AR
AR
manifold
out let Dia
etc something like that
good idea guys and i am pretty sure somebody ask me some time ago to set up a tread like this.........:eek:
happy to make it a sticky and a standard format sounds like a good idea
to keep this thread as a good resource i was thinking it would be best if its just kept to the detail of each setup only. questions and comments can be asked in seperate threads
your thoughts?
Yeah this might end up a bit messy due to questions we all have...if we are gunna do compressor and turbine a/r's we may as well add photos of the turbo mounted to the motor just to give everyone ideas of size,positioning and orientation maybe ?
All the turbos described here seem to be T25 flange requiring a T3 to T25 adapter which suits the OEM Isuzu manifold.
Does anyone have a T3 flange turbo model that suits the 4BD1 in our Landies?
AFAIK, apart from the OEM turbo, all others with a T3 flange will be too large.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
Most listed here should perform better than the OEM turbo.
There is a T3 flanged turbo off a Nissan RB20 engine that will fit. I have no experience with it, but someone here (might have been Craig-E) fitted one years back.
I have an oil cooled T3 flanged garrett turbo (turbine housing A/R of 0.48, compressor 0.42) off a Merc OM603 3L diesel on mine. Develops 10psi at ~1500rpm and tops out at 18psi at 2000rpm+ with the fuel screw turned out by 1.5 turn. The wastegate is wired shut although I suspect it may have developed a leak at full tune (was a backyard job for a one-off trip)Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
It's great for highway driving / overtaking in current tune, but still has plenty of untapped potential - preturbo EGT's in the 500 to 550 range. Mind you it is also intercooled.
Under full pedal, it still slips the clutch (non-turbo pressure plate) driving @ 80km/h+ in 4th gear. Pics below.
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/599/img0619vn2.jpg
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/8408/img0468q.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
I understand Saab 900 turbos are of a similar size also.
There are a few Isuzu manifolds... the one that I have is T25 I think and supports the BorgWarner EFR 6258. I'll add it here once I know it works.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
OK when we talk about compressor/turbine wheels which would be preferred and why?
.50 A/R Compressor, .63A/R Turbine
.58 A/R compressor, .50A/R Turbine
and why?
Mostly we are including this information for identification reasons, some turbos come with different options for turbine housings, which can be used to setup the turbo to work better at low rpm vs higher rpm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
The compressor housing's are usually matched to the wheel inside, so checking the A/R of the housing is just another check that you have the right turbo.
For example, a garrett turbo with turbine A/R of 0.49 and compressor A/R of 0.48 is likely a T25 with the 51.3mm compressor wheel.
A turbo that looked the same externally but had a 0.64 A/R turbine housing and 0.8 A/R compressor cover would be a T25G with the 54mm compressor wheel.
But that is how they come from the factory, you can swap parts to your hearts content within some turbo families.