Thread: Dump Pipe

By the looks rijidij has used the original cast dump pipe...I personally like the dump pipe that isuzurover is running and probably will be making it myself as I have made the rest of the system due to the same reason as you because the exhaust shop wanted the car for a week and was going to charge me for a full system even though I done all the work

There is instructions on how to make dump pipes somewhere on the net ill post the link up if I find it..

If I was you, I would get a 90*, 3" mandrel bend and cut it part way around the bend, but instead of the cut being radial from the centre of the radii, make it parallel to the remaining leg, i.e. the cut will be vertical when it is welded to the flange.

When this is done the opening at the cut will be 3" in one direction (width) and a larger oval shape in height (this dimension will depend on where you make the cut.

You will still have to massage the cut to best suit the flange.

If you look at what Isuzurover (Ben) did you will be able to work out what I tried to describe above. The thread for this is in the Isuzu Landie section and the name is something like "budget turbo installation" (from memory).

Originally Posted by Bush65

If I was you, I would get a 90*, 3" mandrel bend and cut it part way around the bend, but instead of the cut being radial from the centre of the radii, make it parallel to the remaining leg, i.e. the cut will be vertical when it is welded to the flange.

When this is done the opening at the cut will be 3" in one direction (width) and a larger oval shape in height (this dimension will depend on where you make the cut.

You will still have to massage the cut to best suit the flange.

If you look at what Isuzurover (Ben) did you will be able to work out what I tried to describe above. The thread for this is in the Isuzu Landie section and the name is something like "budget turbo installation" (from memory).

Here is mine:



Lasecut flange and heavily "massaged" 3" mandrel pipe. The massaging and welding was done by an exhaust shop.

Here is mine. Same idea but not as well executed



Steve

I did it in reverse to avoid the alternator and it has worked out very well. Garrett TB25.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1000324-1-.jpg
Still all ok 7 years later

JC

i did similar to ben (not as pretty though) but i had to use a 4" pipe to get the circumference to fit my exhaust flange. so bought a 4" to 3" straight reducer and belted the 4" into shape till it worked, then into a 3" cut donut to get the tight radius to swing under the starter motor.

Thankyou everyone for the replies. Got an idea of how im going to do it, and some bits and pieces are on there way. Also going to look at converting my arc welder to tig, and see how it goes.

Originally Posted by HotWired

Thankyou everyone for the replies. Got an idea of how im going to do it, and some bits and pieces are on there way. Also going to look at converting my arc welder to tig, and see how it goes.

IMO, unless you want a TIG for other stuff I wouldn't bother. By the time you get gas and torch it becomes a resonably expensive exercise, and then you still have to learn to use it if you haven't done TIG before.
Instead, get some 2mm arc rods and use those to tack it up. Depending on your skill level you should be able to do the actual welds with those too. Keep the current down, the runs short and cool the tube off in between runs with a wet rag and you should be fine.
If you're not confident with that, then just tack it and take it to your local exhaust place to weld. Should only cost you a few $$$ and you'll get a decent job.

Steve