That'd be because any ancilliary safety devices such as indicators and brake lights will not work when the ignition is off, but you could still drive around.
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That'd be because any ancilliary safety devices such as indicators and brake lights will not work when the ignition is off, but you could still drive around.
I bought one of these on the weekend for $40 (two other wreckers wanted $110 and $125, so phone around!).Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
I just have a few questions about how it's supposed to work. I hooked up the +ve and -ve feeds, then touched the ignition wire feed to the positive terminal. The motor immediately pulled the spring through the plastic guide, snapped it in half, and broke the cable as well.
I expected it would move to an "open" position while the ignition was on and then move back once it was off. I pulled the base plate, spring and cable off so I had just the motor on the bench. With the power on it just spins round and round. With the power off it just stops where it is.
I looked inside the casing and there is a micro switch in there with a little cam on a wheel that looks like it should turn the motor off at a certain point. This is obviously not happening.
Can someone tell me what is supposed to be happening here? How do these things work, ie, do they have an "open" position when the power is on and a "closed" position when the power is off, or is it more complicated than that?
Thats a bugger Dave.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_S
Its been a while since I did mine, but from memory there were 3 wires on the unit. From memory I'm pretty sure the motor always goes in the same direction and a half turn on the motor gives either an in or out on the cable depending on which position it started from.
Starting from the extended position, if you apply power to the correct couple of wires the motor will turn until the cable gets to the retracted position when the microswitch opens and stops it (even with power still applied). At that point the circuit for the extend function is made, so if you apply power to those wires it will extend.
I used the original changeover relay that I got with my Stage1 engine to drive it. IIRC the 3 wires aren't a common earth wire, with the other 2 being extend and retract.
I think its more like:
Extend: wire1 +ve, wire2 -ve
Retract: wire2 +ve, wire3 -ve
Thats where the changeover relay comes in as its not just a simple case of switching a power supply on/off. As the relay is switched it does the work of getting the right polarity to the EDIC unit.
My County is still in transit back from Cairns, so I can't 100% confirm all that at present, but hopefully it gives you something helpful to start with.
Steve
on our Series 3 our stop cable was a peice of braided string. It worked well. The new one that LR had supplied to the previous owner was too short.
Time to bring this thread back to life! (Although only briefly I'm predicting.)
I rang Vicroads and they said it is fine if the 1986 vehicle came with a stop cable from factory. No need to change it. But if someone has removed the solenoid/actuator and it was originally stopped via the ignition, then it is not roadworthy.
I think I'm being more hopeful than anything, but by any chance did any of the 110 Isuzu's come with a pull/push cable from factory?
As far as I know, none of the Counties came with a cable. I had a 1982 Stage 1 that did, but my 1985 110 County had power shut down. If yours is a 1986, I think you may be out of luck.
This is what I have, passed rego here...:angel:
SCB7692 Pull to Stop Stopper Cable 3.0 Meter 118in Tractor Truck General Purpose | eBay
JC
My current cable is not secured to the dash properly, so I have this exact one in my ebay watch list. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
Did you get your County engineered for mods at all JC? My understanding is that if you have the vehicle engineered, then the stop cable is covered.
Of course if I don't have any other mods, then having the vehicle engineered just for a stop cable makes it a pretty pricey stop cable!
yup, from V8 petrol to Diesel turbo, seating mods, all upgraded brakes (to late Defender Spec) too. It had to be done this way for insurance purposes as it is on an agreed value full comp policy. Locked in! :)
Easy Peasy.
JC
Judo - you've probably already seen the other thread with circuit details etc for using a Mazda T3500 EDIC actuator, but here it is just in case: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...tor-relay.html
Mike_ie got one recently from Timms truck wreckers in Thomastown where I got mine originally. Not sure what Mike paid but I'd think less than $50 (pretty sure I paid $25 for mine a couple of years back).
Apart from the actuator you only need to get a relay, fabricate a couple of simple brackets, and wire it up. Well worth doing IMO.
I've tried a few times to take photos of mine installed but haven't managed to get anything worthwhile as the angles etc seem to conspire against the camera (either that or I simply suck at taking photos..).
If you want to look at mine and see how simple it is just holler. I work at Altona North so could easily meet up somewhere convenient after work.
Steve