Oil filter upgrade?

I ditched my factory 4BD1T twin filter arrangement, to use a remote mounted FF and bypass filter combination.

I made a plate (about 10 or 12 mm thick) to bolt to the block where the filters were and provided one tapped hole for the pressure supply hose and another for the return to sump from the bypass filter. Note the 4BD1 (unlike the 4BD1T) lacks a hole through the block for the bypass return.

Connect the pressure supply hose to a tee fitting between the FF and bypass filters. The flow through the bypass filter has to be restricted by a small orifice so that the engine lubrication is not deprived. The orifice diameter is stated in the manual but I don't know it off the top of my head - my guess is approx 1.2 mm.

I made another plate to bolt to the oil cooler to take the hose from the outlet of the FF filter. With the stock 4BD1T the supply to the turbo is taken from this point (before the cooler).

Hey,

Many Thanks to Weeds for helping me out recently.

John, do you have any posted pic's of your remote filter setup? I would be interested to see your handy work.

Cheers, Tristan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 08Bender

Hey,

Many Thanks to Weeds for helping me out recently.

John, do you have any posted pic's of your remote filter setup? I would be interested to see your handy work.

Cheers, Tristan

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x 2

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 08Bender

Hey,

Many Thanks to Weeds for helping me out recently.

John, do you have any posted pic's of your remote filter setup? I would be interested to see your handy work.

Cheers, Tristan

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Here's one I posted before to show the plates that bolt to the block and oil cooler to accept the hoses that run to the remote mounted filters.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/08/473.jpg

Edit. the plug on the right side of the bottom plate is where the pressure supply hose to the filters connects. The left one is where the hose from the outlet of the bypass filter connects to drain back to the sump. The plate on the oil cooler is for the cleaned oil from the full flow filter.

try here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...il-filter.html

and maybe here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...onversion.html

Thanks guys..John would you have any pics of the filters mounted in the engine bay ? I personally have never seen anything like this setup.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

Thanks guys..John would you have any pics of the filters mounted in the engine bay ? I personally have never seen anything like this setup.

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Sorry. Heads for remote mounting spin-on filters are readily available, then simply use fittings that include a tee piece, between the inlets of both the full-flow and by-pass filters. Run a hose from the tee to the pressure/delivery port at the block. Then run hoses from the outlets of both filters - from the full-flow filter the hose runs to the inlet of the oil cooler (this is also where the oil line to the turbo tees off) and the hose from the by-pass filter runs to the drain port at the block (note the fitting at the outlet of the by-pass filter needs a flow restrictor in it to reduce the flow through the by-pass filter - the diameter is given on the lubrication circuit in 4BD1 manual).

I'm using a centrifugal filter (similar to that used in TD5's except it is cleanable) for the by-pass and the nozzles that spin the filter provide the necessary flow resistance.

The first 2 pics below, copied from an Isuzu manual might help - excuse my crude mark-up attempts.

For the drawing of the 2 filters, the mark-up shows the direction that oil flows through the full-flow filter (cyan colour) and the by-pass filter (magenta). The red circle indicates where the 1.2 mm orifice (flow restrictor) is located in the stud that the filter cartridge screws onto.
Oil from the pump enters the shell of both filter cartridges from the housing that bolts to the side of the block.

The oil that leaves the full-flow filter then exits through the centre of the cartridge and flows via an external pipe to the oil cooler.

The oil flow through the by-pass filter exits through the centre of the cartridge where the flow rate is restricted by a 1.2mm orifice. The filtered oil then returns to the sump by a hole in the side of the block (underneath the filter housing). Note: it seems that only 4BD1's originally fitted with bypass filters have the necessary drain hole.

For those wanting to upgrade, it should not be that difficult to add a by-pass drain hole if it is not present. Although much easier if the engine is out of the vehicle, the pic below taken from the RH front wheel arch (wheel in place when taken) shows the access to the location on the block where the hole needs to go. Here it is covered by a plate I use to enable remote mounting of the filters – on a normal engine the housing that the filters mount to is there. Note that the inner guard had been cut away to allow hot air to escape from the engine bay – this would allow access to drill the necessary hole through the block. A crude way to make an extension drill is to weld a length of round bar to the drill shank Remove the filter housing and sump, block and cover as much as possible to prevent iron shavings going where they aren't wanted before drilling.

The oil circuit diagram shows the flow paths and the restrictor diameter (1.2 mm). I've marked it up to show where I use a Tee fitting between the inlets of remote mounted full-flow and by-pass filters, which achieves the same result as standard, and gets the filters away from the front drive shaft – for me the main reason was so I could use a centrifugal by-pass filter (no restrictor needed in my case because it was taken care of in the centrifugal filter design).

The last pic shows a typical filter head that can be used for remote mounting a spin-on filter. These are readily available (try supercheap, etc.) with, or without bulkhead mounting brackets.

I saw a setup a few years ago on a 4wd where it had an adapter fitted which took 3 rolls of one ply toilet paper. Don't laugh, the oil in the sump was totally clean. The owner said it was the best mod he ever did.

Anyone want to talk about bypass filter micron levels?

I'm running Sakura C1504 at the moment, simply because it's locally available. I was previously running Ryco Z155X. For the same reason.

I can find no useful data on either of them. Which tends to suggest they are nothing special.
Is there anything to be lost in going to finer bypass filters? Are they even available in the M20x1.5 thread and 4" diameter?

DT80series is using a Baldwin B222 which is the same size as factory in 12 micron.