Cutting off the front of the bracket changes pulley alignment.
Drilling all the way through might be possible but may foul the top bolt to the block. Can't see why you'd bother when cutting/tapping is so easy.
Steve
okay that makes sense- couldn't you just cut a smaller section off each end for same desired effect and keep enough thread for bolts or alternatively drill straight thru and use a single long bolt and nut?
Cutting off the front of the bracket changes pulley alignment.
Drilling all the way through might be possible but may foul the top bolt to the block. Can't see why you'd bother when cutting/tapping is so easy.
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
of course-didn't think about the alignment issue. Thanks
anyone have a pic of the original alternator oil drain fitting on engine block or know what the thread/pitch is as the one on mine doesn't seem right and difficult to fit a hose properly. Thanks
1/8 bsp. Have texted a pic to you.
just fitted new jaylec alternator and bracket(thanks damien) - lined up perfectly with pulleys but the belt adjuster/tensioner is right at the end of it's limit-currently the tension is tight enough-I'm wondering if the adjuster is meant to bolt onto the lower bolt at the engine block/water pump cover? See attached pic- mine is on the top one.
Been ages since I did mine, but from memory the adjustment lug on the new alternator is at the 10 o'clock position, whereas the original is at 12.
I'm pretty sure I extended the adjuster bracket a bit to suit.
A slightly bigger pulley would move the alternator back towards the block and give you some more adjustment, but would lower its RPM.
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
Get a shorter belt![]()
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