Printable View
I'm not liking any of this Mike:( you should be able to see something obvious. Your description on the ph still sounds like a serious compression blowby problem, never have I seen a 4bd1 spit oil out of a dipstick tube , especially one fitted with a provent....and coupled with the roughness and knocking...Not sure what to think at the moment as all the other suggestions have merit, too. :(
Hope it hasn't been in vain :mad:
JC
Well from what i saw today its not an internal problem unless its cam or timing gear related as mike has pulled the head and the slugs and all looks fine to me only little prob was the rings on no2 were a little tight but i rekon it was just a bit of carbon doing it .
And the liner for no2 had been knocked up proud of the block as mike caught it with the bottom of the rod as he was driving the slug out but it tapped back home with a bit of wood
Head gasket looked fine no signs of blow out or leaking at all and the sealing rings for the liners looked fine .
Looks like its goin back together to be run so the problem can be pin pointed
Fun and games NOT :mad:
I mentioned this to mike via pm days ago, the only reason I thought of this was when he first got it going at my place it ran rough, one of the injecters was having difficulties bleeding up.Quote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
The Provent filter will probably need a clean if the engine has been blowing excessively. I have described previously how this can be done.
It may be best to disconnect the PV outlet from the intake and even pull the PV filter when testing after reassembly.
I had a look at the injectors they look ok but fairly dirty tho thats how they usualy look to me
But it dosnt explain what he said to me about the knock sounds mike rekons its like a metalic knock sound .
Wont know till its running again then i can assist with finding the drama
He spun the crank this arvo with the starter and there was no noise the harmonic balance seems fine and there is no end float at the front of the crank
Then a tent peg was used in the wading plug hole to see is the fly wheel had any movement front back and nothing then i spun the crank by hand while mike watched the fly wheel spin and it ran true
My guess is the problem is either the clutch has spat the dummy ( but its still working ) or there is a fueling problem like a dribbling injector or a pump problem
Before pistons go back in double check to make sure ring gaps are not lined up
Then with the piston 4mm from top fill with diesel and see how long it takes to
run off ( high tec leak down test ) Also head ports usually give an idear of a cylinder giving trouble .
AM
Mike
Did you check the oil level before removing sump?
Do you have the 2 rubber gaskets on the sump?
Jim
What should one look for in the ports extra soot or less soot please explain and the leak test sounds like a good idea .Quote:
Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner
The port of the cylinder giving trouble usually looks slightly different just like reading spark plugs as with the diesel test just a crude compare between each cyl