Thread: Turbo to intake sizing and exhaust sizing

Originally Posted by flagg

I had a look at mine, if you move the dipstick and as isuzurover said take off the extra flange you will have more room than mine does. Are you keeping the AC compressor?

Make sure you have clearance between it and the starter. I have about 100mm - so not much more than the exhaust.

An exhaust place will be able to make up a new flange that fits the turbo, and if they use a doughnut they will be able to get 3" mandrel flange to tip as long as you sort the sump.

Shame you are so far away, or we could easily sort it all in a weekend.

Keeping the AC compressor and I would say I have the same clearance as you. I'm assuming that's not an issue.

I'll leave the decision on flange replacement/removal until I get to an exhaust shop I reckon. I'd like to think they will be able to offer some options.

1 weekend? You must be dreaming. SteveG has kindly offered some assistance for some odd jobs I can't do myself, so I'm sure it will come together in good time. "Time" being the key point unfortunately...

Originally Posted by flagg

looks like you've got the same setup as SteveG:

Unfortunately that VNT never made it out of the shed. I broke the turbine shaft with a bout of late night un-thinkingness while disassembling it to fit new seals

Judo - keep in mind that it could be cheaper/easier to cut your losses and get a different turbo. That exhaust housing is pretty big, so if it can't be removed or if the exhaust guys are going to have to do too much in the way of gymnastics (or you're going to use up your entire engine bay) you might be better to use a different turbo and sell that on.

Just keep it in mind before committing too much in the way of time/funds into making what you have work and then ending up wishing you hadn't.
Not a criticism in any way of what you're currently doing - just a comment as I've been guilty of pushing on a few times when I should have started again from scratch - and regretted it later.

Steve

LOL I knew it was only a matter of time before someone suggested I get a better turbo. I was just waiting to see who it was. To be honest, my money was on isuzurover.

I know earlier this week I said to you, "Simple job -> snow ball -> full replacement", but that doesn't mean I need a new turbo...does it?

Hypothetically, what kind of turbo would I get and how much would it cost?

HAHAHA i was so close to saying get a new snail... but then I dont know enough about the Garretts to know how good the one you have is / isn't.

I'm a very strong believer in doing something once and doing it well. Have a think about your end goals and how you drive, then the mapping of what you have and future intercooling etc.

In terms of what turbo... you know what I ended up with. Prices are at full-race.com. I didn't want VNT as I couldn't bothered with setting up a decent controller for the vanes. If you are handy with Arduino and have an electronic boost sensor, and a potentiometer for the throttle it wouldn't be too hard... but how much do you have on your plate already ?

(I know there are plenty with the vacuum valves too).

But if you liked how it drove with this one, and you can remove the flange thing then I'd keep it for now.

As I am in the process of doing the turbo plumbing thought I would post a couple off pics .The air filter I thought was to small for 4.7 L so knocked up a new one 3.5" in and out. The outlet points at the turbo inlet wich is 3.5" and will connect with a hump hose and 45 degree bend .If anyone has any thoughts on the transition between the turbo 2" and intercooler wich is 3" at the moment I am thinking a 3x2" bend on the cooler in and a 3"bend on the outlet with a 3x3.5" bend on the manifold .The other problem is the size of the snorkel too much restriction? Thinking of an extra inlet under the vent in the guard wich I can blank off for water crossings

Thanks AM

Sounds like it's going to be a goer.
Maybe a 3" to 2" reducer straight off the turbo, keep the plumbing 3" all the way to and from the cooler and use another reducer to fit the manifold.
Every bend and size change in the plumbing creates inefficiency.

Beautiful engineering as always AM.

For the transition between the 2" turbo and the 3" intercooler I just used a silicone reducer like this:

KLS Black Silicone Straight Reducer 51 76 MM 2" 3 Inch Turbo Intercooler KIT | eBay

Turbo research has proved difficult. It's clear I need a LOT of hours before I will understand turbo theory! As such I have no idea what a good match for the 4BD1 is and quality turbo's seem to be pricey. (Over $1000?).

I assume these are Chinese rip offs? There are some ebay stores that have tons of turbos at $200-$400.

GT28 GT2870 2 T25 60 A R Rear 64 A R OIL Interna Wastegate Turbo Turbocharger | eBay

I'll probably just keep what I've got, but until I'm ready to go to the exhaust shop, a bit more research can't hurt.