niice!Quote:
Originally Posted by jackz
Printable View
niice!Quote:
Originally Posted by jackz
Nice one. What size is the gauge and can it be configured for degrees C?Quote:
Originally Posted by jackz
It's 52mm. There's a small button on the face that is used to display the peak values of boost and egt, reset the peak values, swap between ℃and ℉, and display volts on the led display. There is also a light sensor on the face which I assume is for auto dimming. The gauge appears really well constructed using quality components. The company makes electronics for aviation , including control systems for military drones so should be rather good at what they do. The bushes are available in heaps of different combinations, and will custom make for very reasonable cost. http://mcnallyelectronics.com/
^gauges, not bushes. BLOODY STUPID PHONE!!!!!!
Those gauges look excellent. I was looking for one months ago, but I couldn't find any combination ones that look that good with the option for C and psi / EGT and boost. I will very tempted to upgrade to one of those now. :)
I looked at the ones on eBay but they were pretty crap, even at eBay prices. The 300 landed for these was not too bad, I thought.
I have put a couple of digital voltmeters in the overhead console, for the main and aux batteries, so will pull the original voltmeter from the dash and replace with the boost/egt. Will probably replace the temp with a dual water temp/ oil pressure one.
Officially started my chrissy holidays yesterday, so started doing a trial instal of the turbo. all went fairly straightforward. Mounted the provent on the guard just in front of the washer bottle.
Drilled and tapped one of the two raised mounting bosses on the inlet manifold elbow to take the sensor for the boost gauge. Was a bit concerned about where to tap the manifold, being unsure of the casting's thickness, but the boss turned out to be ideal.
Found a small oval plate bolted to the block just above the brush end of the starter, which I assume is used on the turbo motors for an oil return, so will most likely drain the turbo and provent to there.
Just a couple of minor annoyances that I hadn't counted on.
1; The turbo manifold sits a lot closer to the head than the N.A. manifold, meaning the dipstick tube can no longer pass behind it.
2; the original steel pipes for the heater pass right through where the inlet to the compressor goes so will need to make up new pipes.Attachment 70093Attachment 70094Attachment 70095
Do you have a pic of where you tapped for the oil return?
I.E. Do you mean the oil pump cover? (Thanks for the pic Steve)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/355.jpg
Need to be careful how you tap it.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...il-return.html
Mine has this Attachment 70097
just forward and below the oil pump cover. I assume it is for the turbo drain on the turbo motors. Going to TIG a 16mm pipe stub to it to suit the turbo drain with a 1/2" tee for the provent drain.
I notice your oil pump cover appears to be just a flat steel plate, the same as mine, as opposed to the casting shown in many of the other threads, is the other side flat?
Correct, that is where the turbo drain goes on a 4BD1T.
