Isuzu Twin Oil Filter Spacer Block

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Originally Posted by steveG

Interesting that you had the hole mismatch. I had similar but figured it was due to my engine being an early Stage1 with maybe slightly different oil cooler...................

Steve

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The centers of the holes for the top pipe are different by 3mm from my factory 4BD1T to the 4BB1 I have in the shed.

The great thing about laser cutting or CNC machining is you could elongate the holes like this to allow for both. Someone else might want to confirm the centers on a 4BD1 N/A. Mine are 45mm for the 4BD1T and 42mm for the 4BB1. I would expect late (~'88 on) 4BD1 N/A's to be the same as the turbo block.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/11/236.jpg

If I were making them from Ally, I would go with Bojan's suggestion and make the sections a bit thicker as weight is not an issue...........something like this, 12mm outer walls and 10mm inner divider. As Steve said earlier, one hole for the oil would be sufficient, so the thicker walls wouldn't impact on flow rate at all.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/11/237.jpg


If you do decide to go with laser or CNC of some sort, I'd be happy to provide the DXF files (or IGUS etc) if you need them. As you can see, I already have the parts files, but I would need to confirm dimensions.

Cheers, Murray

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Originally Posted by steveG

.......................What might also be of interest/value to people, is for a group buy of the longer bolts and HT threaded rod for fitting - effectively ending up with a "kit" to fit the housing. The rod in particular is quite dear - about $90/m from memory, and you don't need the whole length. Worthwhile to sort out amongst individual members if it doesn't happen on a group basis.
If it was possible to get long enough bolts instead of using the rod would be even better.................................

Steve

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You might get away with using standard threaded rod, but I wasn't prepared to take the risk. I think I paid $57 for a meter for H/T, but that was a while ago. It was enough to do 2 sets IIRC.
I couldn't get bolts long enough at the time. I ended up Loctiting the rods into the block and using nuts on the ends.

Cheers,. Murray

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Originally Posted by rijidij

You might get away with using standard threaded rod, but I wasn't prepared to take the risk. I think I paid $57 for a meter for H/T, but that was a while ago. It was enough to do 2 sets IIRC.
I couldn't get bolts long enough at the time. I ended up Loctiting the rods into the block and using nuts on the ends.

Cheers,. Murray

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Me either.
You must have fitted your adapter before you put the engine in, as the spacer wouldn't fit over studs once in the chassis. Mine only has about 20mm between the chassis and the nuts on the long rods. I turned my threaded rod into bolts by welding some nuts on them.

Steve

Sorry to sound a tad naïve but what's the advantage? Is it so you can use readily available truck filters, use the cleaner to change screw on type filters or does the system daisy chain the filters allowing you to prolong the oil life?

The big fat filter is a bypass filter to take smaller particles out of the oil. Some of the oil that goes into the housing is taken via a restrictor and goes through that filter then back into the sump (so not daisy-chained).
The NPR trucks with 4bd1t had this setup, and had a 12000 km oil change period specified.

For me, cleaner oil, longer changes (I try to change mine at 10K), and easy spin on filters are all good reasons :)

Steve

How tall are these filters and how low do the downward facing filters sit? Will they fowl the axle housing with the vehicle flexed up? If not how much clearance is there?

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Originally Posted by Offender90

http://imageshack.us/a/img715/9352/29052010110.jpg

Bojan

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This image answers my question.

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Originally Posted by dobbo

This image answers my question.

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The filters would foul on the driveshaft without the spacer - hence the need to fabricate one.

The original perentie setup looks like this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/886.jpg

Or more specifically, I'm led to believe the top bracket is an early version (2 piece) of a 4BD1T spacer and the bottom bracket is the late version (single piece) for either a 4BD1 or a 4BD1T.

Cheers

Bojan

Hi guys,

interesting thread.

I'll soon be starting my project to fit a 4BD1T and matching Isuzu five speed into a Range Rover Classic.

Having read this thread I'm still not entirely clear on the reasons for the extensions. Are the extensions simply required to allow fitment of twin filters? And all things being equal do the extensions replicate the position of factory fitted twin filters?

In other words if my turbo engine already has the factory fitted twin filter will I find that the filter assembly will hit the chassis rail or drive shaft - therefore I should also be interested in these extensions?

Regardless, I did wonder whether the twin filter could be remote mounted and plumbed to respective points on the engine, using appropriately machined cover plates.

On the funny side, seeing all the stacked plates siliconed together makes me think yep, this is what LRover would do - plenty of scope for leaks.

Cheers.

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Originally Posted by workingonit

Hi guys,

interesting thread.

I'll soon be starting my project to fit a 4BD1T and matching Isuzu five speed into a Range Rover Classic.

Having read this thread I'm still not entirely clear on the reasons for the extensions. Are the extensions simply required to allow fitment of twin filters? And all things being equal do the extensions replicate the position of factory fitted twin filters?

In other words if my turbo engine already has the factory fitted twin filter will I find that the filter assembly will hit the chassis rail or drive shaft - therefore I should also be interested in these extensions?

Regardless, I did wonder whether the twin filter could be remote mounted and plumbed to respective points on the engine, using appropriately machined cover plates.

On the funny side, seeing all the stacked plates siliconed together makes me think yep, this is what LRover would do - plenty of scope for leaks.

Cheers.

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Yes its to clear the front shaft.