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Thread: Clutch slipping under load?

  1. #1
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    Clutch slipping under load?

    Hey guys, went camping upto Echuca over the long week end took the perentie hard top, and found after an hour of driving with a full load and two passengers, that on an up hill my clutch started to slip on the way up some hills, i'd loose so much speed that i'd have to drop back to third keep it at thigh revs till i got to a flat, but then when i got to the top of the hill and to a flat the clutch was so hot it was slipping when i went to fourth and tried to give it any power, so i had to accelerate very gently. We made it out there ok but the problem on the way back seemed much worse. I thought i'd cook my clutch before i'd get home!

    I drove it again today one passenger and emptied all the gear out of the car, and not having any issue. Its only with a bit of weight in the car i seem to have to have this issue.

    I recently replaced the master cylinder in the car, could it be the slave? Is the clutch worn? Anything i can adjust?

    I have a turbo to fit on but im concerned that when i do i'll start to get more clutch slip with the surge of power.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    One thing to check.........if the bung is in the drain hole at the bottom of the bellhousing, remove it to see if there is any oil pooling in the bottom. I had this problem with a leaky oil pump on the gearbox. I regularly check the bellhousing, but there was just enough oil pooling that a little was picked up on the clutch. It only slipped under heavy acceleration when pulling into a new gear, but it would cruise ok.
    A leaky main seal would give the same result if the housing isn't drained occasionally.

    Cheers, Murray
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  3. #3
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    Also make sure there is some freeplay at the top of the clutch pedal travel.
    There have been a few reports of incorrectly adjusted clutch master cylinders over the past few months, and IIRC some of those have been ex ADF ones.

    I can't recall the actual measurement, but if you've got around 20mm of downwards movement in the pedal before you feel it start to harden up then you should be OK.

    If not, what can happen is the master cylinder doesn't release fully, and the clutch will start to slowly build pressure in the system preventing the pressure plate from clamping fully. Eventually the clutch will start to slip.
    As an emergency fix you can open the bleed nipple on the slave to release the pressure, but it will build up again (repeated clutch application and heat will accelerate the buildup). The fix is to adjust the master so it has sufficient freeplay.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    As rigidij say - been there. The check whether this is the problem is to remove the wading plug in the bottom of the flywheel housing and see what comes out. A few drops, probably not the problem, half a cup, you've found the problem - box outand plan on removing the oil pump cover, lapping it flat and fitting a new gasket. And replace the clutch driven plate at least. While you are at it, you ought to replace the throwout bearing at least.

    If the oil that comes out looks like engine rather than gearbox oil (i.e. black) plan on replacing the rear main seal while the box is out. It is unlikely you will need to replace the clutch pressure plate or get the flywheel skimmed unless it has been really abused.

    If only a few drops come out, either someone has recently drained it, after the clutch was contaminated, or the problem is elsewhere, typically pushrod adjustment on the master cylinder.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
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    Fit the turbo pressure plate.

  6. #6
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    Thanks guys i will remove the bung, and check to see if theres a heap of oil pouring out. I'm going to have to give it good wash underneath first, i bottomed out and got bogged and had to winch myself out, plenty of mud still under the car. (Fitst time i used the PTO winch, im glad it worked!)

    Nothing worse than having dry dirt falling into your eyes whilest workng underneath a car..

    I will let you all know how it goes..

    Heres some pics of me coming out a that rut...


    Hey dougal, whats the turbo pressure plate?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
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    Heavier duty clutch pressure plate, has a higher clamping force on the clutch therefore less slippage.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by walahbro View Post
    Hey dougal, whats the turbo pressure plate?
    As Vern said, it's the big spring plate that does all the clamping in your clutch. More clamping force means it can transmit more torque.

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