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Thread: Questions questions questions...

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh View Post
    Would you think you would get similar issues putting a 4 cyl Isuzu in a 101?
    Yes

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87County View Post
    I think this thread points towards the way you could be thinking

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forwar...nto-101-a.html
    Yeah, that is one sweet setup, but several things stop me from going down that road. The biggest is my fabrication skills - Sitec is bloody good at that sort of thing, and I'm... Well... Agricultural by comparison and if you had to pay someone to do all that fab work, it would cost a fortune. Add to that the engine is a lot more to start with, and it gets a bit beyond me. Not sure what the engineer would say either. My conversion will be fully engineered and my initial talks with the local bloke I'll be using is all thumbs up. If I can keep the gearbox in its current location and not have to mod the engine mounts on the chassis, then I'm free and clear without anything but a cursory once over. I also want to keep it that way should I ever want to stick the V8 back in it to make it original again.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  3. #43
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    Just a comment on the gearing...
    My County is LT95 .996 on standard diffs with 255's (~33"). I find first gear is quite high when towing, and if starting off on an incline with the van on it needs a reasonable bit of clutch work to get it moving.
    Not a show stopper, but I reckon you'd definitely notice it on 36's.

    Maybe I just need a better turbo and more fuel

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  4. #44
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    Ok, so now down to some nuts and bolts stuff - costs. A friend just jogged my memory on this one.

    So, here's what I've thought up... This is based on buying a non turboed engine and adding a turbo - because I may know where to find an example like this that would suit, but when I go and buy one, if I can get a decent turboed version, then all the better.

    Engine - $1,200
    Turbo and bits - $2,000
    Radiator (needs a new one regardless) -$700 (locally built Ali unit to suit - already priced)
    Adaptor plate - $???
    3.5 C&P's - $600 (pure guess...)
    Engineering - $1,300 (Already checked with local Engineer)
    Disk brakes (if required by Engineer) - $1,800

    Plus other bits and pieces. I do have my old turbo I've just replaced on the Rangie, which may be able to be rebuilt - its a VNT off a 3.0 TD6 - would that work? I also have he old intercooler that I swapped out of the Rangie when a stone hit it, but it is repairable, so I might save something on all that...

    I'll do all the work and fabrication required, including new exhaust manifold if I can't find a suitable off the shelf unit that will get the turbo to squeeze under the 101's engine cover. I have built them before - not pretty, but they worked...

    Need to measure an engine up to ensure it will fit without moving the box at all - does anyone have a measurement from the back of the engine to the front of the fan? How thick is the adaptor plate going to be do you think? Oh, and how deep is the engine from the top of the rocker cover to the bottom of the sump?

    Any thoughts, comments or amendments appreciated.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by bacicat View Post
    Ok, so now down to some nuts and bolts stuff - costs. So, here's what I've thought up...

    Engine - $1,200

    Adaptor plate - $???
    3.5 C&P's - $600 (pure guess...)

    Any thoughts, comments or amendments appreciated.
    For that ballpark figure, you could get a Perentie wreck, with 0.996 LT95 to suit 4BD1.


    Also, 3.54 crown wheels probably won't fit the offset of your 5.xx centres for the 101 Sals diff, you will need to find a 3.54 centre (1 comes with Perentie wreck!), or maybe you're thinking a locker?

  6. #46
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    Unfortunately I would get shot if I bought a whole vehicle home to do this...

    But, I may have to find someone wrecking one if I need the entire diff centres and not just the C&P. Not thinking about lockers ATM but maybe a Detroit in the back.

    Gearbox rebuild is separate - I always planned on rebuilding 1 - I have a spare 101 LT95 already which I'm going to put a roller taper conversion in and a new set of bearings, so about $2,000 for that on its own, but I'll know I have a new box that will last for ever then.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  7. #47
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    Still looking for dimensions if anyone can be as kind as to run a tape measure over their engine?

    Overall height from top of rocker cover to bottom of sump, and length from back of flywheel housing to front of the water pump.

    Many thanks in advance.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  8. #48
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    Someone (poss Bush65) posted a dimensions drawing of the engine in the Isuzu section a while back.
    I'm not at home or I'd measure for you.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  9. #49
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    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...-110-a-15.html

    Possibly has the answers you want...??
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  10. #50
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    Thanks guys - found this in that thread.

    A quick question. On the right pic - showing the length - is that showing it includes the bell housing, or is that the flywheel housing? I can't quite work out what it is supposed to be.

    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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