4BD1 into Defender

A few ideas on a fabricated steel adaptor keep as close to the bolts as practical
Pic shows some of the 7 angles used to do this.Weld 40mm tacks on the inside thru each angle then weld the outside in a sequence to minimise distortion.As far as the shaft goes a fully floating shaft has several advantages. Will take up any slight misalignment .In the unlikly chance you break it about 30 minutes should see it fixed provided you have a spare wich does take bugger all room:)
The mating flange can be a Isuzu output flange with a rehashed register:o

AMs senile drivell

*awed silence, followed by 200 PMs to AM to mass produce them*
Very nice work, Sir!
Craftsmanship.

Many thanks was just for the ideas 40 years to late for the production side of things:(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner

AMs senile drivell

---

If that's senile drivel then what are the rest of us spouting?:(

Great work, I hadn't seen that photo before. Looks much nicer than 2 days CNC.

As far as the perentie's towing ability. I have had no problems moving things around and she handles a pretty good 95kph on the flat.

cheers,
Brian.

That looks brilliant AM, shame you aren't selling them :(

...but then 2 days CNC looks better than nothing at all :)

Lots of us don't have the life time of industrial experience - contacts, access to materials, metallergic knowledge and planning processes.

I'm not sure why the derogatory focus on the CNC case. The case is the least issue. From my point of view it was the shaft that was the major issue.

My constructive suggestion then for those still hankering for an adaptor, but with cost concerns, would be to buy the shaft from Outcast and build your own adaptor case. But make sure you get the case right or you'll potentially screw the shaft. Nice work by the way AM.

Options:
- do the lot yourself if you work in the industry and have the contacts
- if you have no industry experience then spend a lot of time developing the contacts, do it yourself and hope any mistakes on the way don't cost more than buying off the shelf
- hope that aulro members with industrial knowledge will really come up with serious help to allow you to make your own prototype
- wait for Sheldon
- go fully Outcast (and offset the redicule by knowing you are getting somewhere)
- go shaft Outcast, case self (probably still get redicule cause you weren't man enough to file your own splines using the best NZ jade cutting tips :) )
- cannabalise another vehicle, or buy ex-army or open market
- wait til someone finds another kit manufacturer
- look on for the rest of your life (possibly with an engine/gearbox sitting on your shed floor for ever)

Serious question. For $AU3-4k for an adapter & gear/TC linkage set (buy your own gearbox and LT230) what is the demand?

I would think there is small demand, but enough to keep the question bubbling along about where to get an adaptor. Small demand I think kills the idea of getting professional casting services to set up for it. Hence CNC.

I have a furnace that can handle 2 litres only. And I'm still trying to tune it for cast iron. I could build bigger but $$$$. Then getting reliable source of materials, degassing, moulding, warranty/public liability etc. Vague idea that if I got Outcast unit as mould template I could try casting one and feed it back to Outcast for evaluation. But I don't want to upset Outcast cause they have put a lot of time into product. And I want the case on my vehicle and not sitting around as a template while I make up a wooden copy.

As said, the shaft is the real issue.

Got any imperial jade you could send me for my min collection?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dougal

Serious question. For $AU3-4k for an adapter & gear/TC linkage set (buy your own gearbox and LT230) what is the demand?

---

I think Sheldon sold at least half a dozen at similar prices???

There are 3000 perenties being sold off. Those who want to have an overdrive would have to spend the above or $2-3k for an LT95 roverdrive if and when it is released.