Printable View
So I'll have to find some one else who might want a free 24v alternator if it seems I don't need the one currently on the engine? Although I wonder if it can be used for welding?
The engine was missing the starter motor so I've purchased a 12 volt starter and alternator.
Got my approval in principle from the motor vehicle registry today :)
Took some (poor) photos of 4BD1 chassis engine mounts on ex-army vehicle. Will make some mounts and post measurements etc once made up.
Attachment 82801
Some relevant links to same:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...-begins-6.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...version-2.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ne-mounts.html
Other peoples photos
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...uzu_mount.jpeg
Saw this method elsewhere so gave it a try. Pay out more chain than I did to get centre of gravity lower - otherwise the body lolls around in slow motion. Carried out operation by my self. Good resting point is the door frame.
Attachment 82809
Attachment 82810
Attachment 82811
Attachment 82812
Attachment 82813
For some, the most interesting part of the thread. You get shaft, housing, chassis mount, shifter, oil seal and bolts. Note: comparison of adaptor machining and original gearbox cover; and slot inside main cavity where you insert a socket to lock up the drive flange when tightening flange bolt.
Attachment 82822
Attachment 82823
Attachment 82824
Attachment 82825
Attachment 82826
Length of housing. Difficulty of getting original flange bolt off. Exploded view of old to be removed. Exploded view of new and some old to go back on. Casing is on first.
Attachment 82828
Attachment 82829
Attachment 82830
Attachment 82831
Attachment 82832
Followed by original flange and flange bolt. Then new drive shaft.
But before installing both drives they should test fitted because the new drive recess and the old drive raised internal lip are an interference fit.
Attachment 82833
Attachment 82834
Attachment 82835
Attachment 82836
Attachment 82837
The interference fit can be driven together with 'gentle' taps from a hammer, around the flange - don't strike the SAE10 splines!!!! Your transfer case will need a long spline input shaft to match - and make sure it has the dog teeth on the nub if you intend to fit a hydraulic pump. The original drive flange bolts cannot be re-used - and note what appears to be shearing pressure. Nuts need to be ground on one side and tack welded to back of old drive flange before final installation. New bolts come in from the front.
Attachment 82838
Attachment 82839
Attachment 82840
Attachment 82841
Previous owner has obviously hit something and creased the frame. Despite this the chassis diagonals and spot heights seem ok. Forgot to take photos, but I added 2.5mm x 80mm x 150mm plate with right angle bend as well, inside both sides - drilled a dozen quarter inch spot weld holes for each plate. Note, in the cut away, there is already some factory fitted bracing within the channel - the little horns run some way in to re-enforce the corners - and you may also just see the edge of a z shaped plate that stops the opposing walls bowing in.
My permit includes the addition of white tiger chassis strengthening plates - to stop bulge reoccurring, that can be felt elsewhere along the chassis (the prang crease being a different issue to the bulge), the bulge is a condition noted for this vehicle when treated rough (they reduced the chassis depth for the Range Rover by 50mm when compared to the Defender). Bulge fixed, just required tapping back with a mallet. See chassis strengthening link to Les Richmond Auto.
Chassis Strengthening
Attachment 82843
Attachment 82844
Attachment 82845
Attachment 82846
Late night work and next morning install - into factory chassis mounts and factory position. Clearances left, right and behind steering box. Note position of v8 mounts, about 40-50mm difference in position.
Attachment 82850
Attachment 82851
Attachment 82852
Attachment 82853
Attachment 82854
...behind steering box.
Attachment 82855
