I've noticed this as well Steve, I need to Fab up a plate to cover the gaping hole just below where the crank. This will be easy once I drop the box, as I think I have a leaky rear main:mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
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I've noticed this as well Steve, I need to Fab up a plate to cover the gaping hole just below where the crank. This will be easy once I drop the box, as I think I have a leaky rear main:mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
Cheers :)
Another point of clarification for our many readers out there...
Interesting to see, when I took the v8 out and separated it from the gearbox, was the plastic engagement piece sitting behind the thrust bearing. The last time I saw this was on my old series 3(?).
The fork attaches to the plastic engagement component, which in turn drives the thrust bearing forward and at the same time providing a swivel join. This arrangement allows the bearing to maintain a parallel(?) attitude to the diaphragm.
The Isuzu on the other hand has no plastic bits. The swivel is provided by a retaining spring around a cast iron mount which is a bed for the bearing.
Do you know Vern if you have the LRover or the Isuzu mechanism?
Mines all isuzu:)
My lift pump is a little different to others I've seen on aulro. Filter is located to the side of, rather than underneath, the lift pump. Same 17mm bolt. Clean as a whistle.
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Before and after shots of sand blasting. The 'after' looks like it has been painted with undercoat, but has not - just the matte finish of the blasting
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The unit and hand piece. One of the things to watch is opening the tanks bottom valve to let grit into the line. Have it too open and the grit just forms sand dunes of 'Big Red' proportions. Open it slowly until the grit just starts to come through. Found it quite efficient, getting into every nook.
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Difference between scotch bright sanding disk (shiny) and sand blasting (matte). I used the sand blasting to get to the difficult inside. Used the scotch bright for the easy outside and a quick sand blast just for extra keying.
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Booth a must. Garnet grit here is about one dollar a kilo - sales guy reckons you can reuse it about 6 or 7 times. Wasted about 13 kg learning the set up with no booth. Protector brand mask after some years of storage in the heat. Second choice full face. Have a couple of self contained powered breathers for crop spraying and woodwork so may press them into use when next 'free range' spraying - other wise a booth!! Managed not to hit myself directly - a glancing stream was enough. Instructions say the hand piece pipe, quarter inch thick, will eventually erode away with the ceramic tip.
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First time trying weld through primer. Supposedly copper based. The spray can gives user no idea of principles involved or how the coating may react to the heat zone. Typical web threads are confusing. Some say it buggers the weld quality. Some say coat the heat zone entirely, while others say no. Some say in the hottest part of the zone the primer burns off, but remains in the less hot part where other primers would have also burnt - then others say it melts and flows into the weld area (bad luck if your overhead welding cause it will run away).
So I've opted to keep clean the area where the weld will be committed, and bring the primer just adjacent. Main concern is not the preservation of the mounts (6mm), but the thinner chassis wall. Will soak the cavity with fish oil once fully welded as in theory the engine and ancillaries are not going to leak rust preventing engine oil, unlike everything else on a Tdi300 :)
You'll see I left my preliminary spot welds in place, broken between the chassis and the mount - the break will allow re-positioning of the mounts for welding with the engine out if so desired.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by workingonit
Sorry but those welds are horrible. I would throw that away and start again. Turn up the amps to get better penetration and try holding the torch 2-handed to get a more even pattern.
If you need to go through engineering an inspector wouldn't pass those.
To some extent I'd agree with you. My MIG started to 'not start' so had to resort to 30 year old 140 amp push pull stick which struggles at max amps to some extent. The internal brace plating is v'eed, and not just butted, and welded both sides. The little vertical is just some lumps I dropped on - the opposing top weld (not shown) is full penetration and ground back to ensure no porosity. And the little ball bearings are from first attempted runs with the faulty MIG using core flux. Gave up and ran the stick over. Have since taken the MIG apart from hand piece to circuit boards - no obvious sign of the problem - fiddled with every connector and now wants to work.
