Thread: 4BD1T MSA5G Range Rover Classic Outcast Adaptor

Took some (poor) photos of 4BD1 chassis engine mounts on ex-army vehicle. Will make some mounts and post measurements etc once made up.

ex-army 110.jpg

Some relevant links to same:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...-begins-6.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...version-2.html

Fabricating Engine Mounts


Other peoples photos

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...uzu_mount.jpeg

Saw this method elsewhere so gave it a try. Pay out more chain than I did to get centre of gravity lower - otherwise the body lolls around in slow motion. Carried out operation by my self. Good resting point is the door frame.

01 body lift z.jpg

02 lift points z.jpg

03 start lift z.jpg

04 body tilt z.jpg

05 good resting point z.jpg

For some, the most interesting part of the thread. You get shaft, housing, chassis mount, shifter, oil seal and bolts. Note: comparison of adaptor machining and original gearbox cover; and slot inside main cavity where you insert a socket to lock up the drive flange when tightening flange bolt.

01 the shaft z.jpg

02 shifter z.jpg

03 adaptor tc side z.jpg

04 adaptor tc side detail z.jpg

05 adaptor gearbox side z.jpg

Length of housing. Difficulty of getting original flange bolt off. Exploded view of old to be removed. Exploded view of new and some old to go back on. Casing is on first.

06 adaptor top z.jpg

07 removing bolt detail z.jpg

08 gearbox output case removed z.jpg

09 gearbox and adaptor exploded view z.jpg

10 attach adaptor z.jpg

Followed by original flange and flange bolt. Then new drive shaft.

But before installing both drives they should test fitted because the new drive recess and the old drive raised internal lip are an interference fit.

11 secure original output shaft z.jpg

12 attach adaptor shaft z.jpg

13 attach adaptor with bolts z.jpg

14 gearbox with adaptor and shaft attached z.jpg

15 original and new shafts joined outside box z.jpg

The interference fit can be driven together with 'gentle' taps from a hammer, around the flange - don't strike the SAE10 splines!!!! Your transfer case will need a long spline input shaft to match - and make sure it has the dog teeth on the nub if you intend to fit a hydraulic pump. The original drive flange bolts cannot be re-used - and note what appears to be shearing pressure. Nuts need to be ground on one side and tack welded to back of old drive flange before final installation. New bolts come in from the front.

16 interference fit and bolts z.jpg

17 original drive flange bolt stressed z.jpg

18 grind nuts z.jpg

19 welded nuts z.jpg

Previous owner has obviously hit something and creased the frame. Despite this the chassis diagonals and spot heights seem ok. Forgot to take photos, but I added 2.5mm x 80mm x 150mm plate with right angle bend as well, inside both sides - drilled a dozen quarter inch spot weld holes for each plate. Note, in the cut away, there is already some factory fitted bracing within the channel - the little horns run some way in to re-enforce the corners - and you may also just see the edge of a z shaped plate that stops the opposing walls bowing in.

My permit includes the addition of white tiger chassis strengthening plates - to stop bulge reoccurring, that can be felt elsewhere along the chassis (the prang crease being a different issue to the bulge), the bulge is a condition noted for this vehicle when treated rough (they reduced the chassis depth for the Range Rover by 50mm when compared to the Defender). Bulge fixed, just required tapping back with a mallet. See chassis strengthening link to Les Richmond Auto.

Chassis Strengthening

IMGP2876 z.jpg

IMGP2877 z.jpg

IMGP2878 z.jpg

IMGP2885 z.jpg

Late night work and next morning install - into factory chassis mounts and factory position. Clearances left, right and behind steering box. Note position of v8 mounts, about 40-50mm difference in position.

01 late night z.jpg

02 next day z.jpg

03 next day z.jpg

04 passenger side clearance z.jpg

05 drivers side clearance steering box z.jpg