If your shaft had 10 splines on either end you could pull the shaft then drop the gear out...
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Thats how i pictured doing it ben, just slide the whole shaft straight out, unless it gets a twist in it
The SAE10 is approx 29mm diameter on the outside, while the oil seal on the shaft is bigger. Won't the oil seal area stop you pulling the shaft through the gear? Unless Ancients comment about a pressed oil seal ring relate to this issue?
Not having a 1.00 transfer case I am not familiar with why you cannot pull the input gear. Something to do with the gear spline cut?
The Isuzu spline was used for a few reasons 1/ its cut with an indexable tungsten insert where as the ten spline is cut with a tool steel form cutter and needs regular resharpening
2/ if the 10 spline breaks its going to break at the flange and probably be a bugger to remove the broken stub 3/ The bigger spline will have less problems with wear and lubrication 4/ I was as mentioned in a previous post going to use 2 isuzu flanges bolted back to back 5/ I have hated 10 spline shafts since my series 1 days:( Think 4 axles and 1 diff in 4 days:mad:
The oil seal is not std size and the gears wont pass with the shaft in position
The isuzu spline looks to be SAE20 to me.
Ancient. So did you get a second Isuzu flange and an old Isuzu MSA output shaft. Then mill the other end of the shaft down to SAE10?
From the serial number information my MSA5G looks to be made in 1989.
I counted 20 splines in the Isuzu drive flange itself. They seemed to resemble the square cut of the SAE standard. To the naked eye they do not look involute. I have a set of modulus 1 involute gear cutters.
But I will go out now and have a look at the actual output shaft itself incase I've mistaken something.
I did find reference to SAE20 on the web, mainly to do with very old mounting system for aeroplane props.
It's half past one in the morning. I'll take it as both sets are involute, however, I have my suspicions.
I used a lens to look at the output shaft. The teeth do seem to have 'hips' as side, they look like involute.
As much as I would like to see involute in the input gear itself, the sides look flat, like the flat but sloped sides of a pyramid running to an almost flat top (assuming minor curvature left over from initial boring). I could very well be wrong. I will put a macro lens on and take some photos to post so others can judge.
Could they be running male involute inside female SAE style? Involute are easier to cut externally, but not as easily inside.