Adaptor shaft

85 county, thanks for the suggestions.

The dial indicator comes off my lathe. It is 'v'ed in the centre to sit on a lathe rail. The only magnetic contact when used off the lathe is along its edges. If you can't get both edged on a land then it falls off.

Sorry, you'll need to read back to see the measure on bench 0.02-0.03 I think..

Undoing the bolt. See this picture from my build thread. It was not enough to put two bolts in in the flange, with a bar in between, while also trying to apply force to the bolt. The case simply rose up on the end of the bar that was between the bolts - hence the chains to stop the case 'walking up'. The bar used on the bolt was longer than the one pictured jamming the bolts and flange.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...t-detail-z.jpg

Just read the whole thread.
Firstly, THANKS! to everyone putting time and energy into this :) :) :)

Question: do we know that the spud shaft from ZF will stand up to diesel pulses, as it would have an easier life behind an auto?

Second Q:The Outcast shaft seems very similar to Sheldons apart from the taper after the oil seal. The lack of taper on sheldon's seems to be a weak point, possible also metal type / quality used. (I am but a lowly backyard mechanic and can't really comment here)

Given the above, could I get a spud shaft (inexpensive) pressed into then welded to a flange to copy what i currently have.

Im less worried about field serviceable (although a great idea) and more worried about long term reliability. TC out isn't such a huge job in the scheme of things. 1hr in the dirt with a extra hand. How long to change a CV?

Sorry to go on tangent, but thoughts?

I will be checking whats left of my shaft for true etc as soon as i can get hold of a dial gauge.

Sheldon's shafts are obviously brittle (?), would this be from to much heat treating? They are made from en26, which from memory a lot of axle manufacturers used to make axles.
I still think he has done a great job, I just has one flaw that needs addressing.

Hi Boof Ed.

Read your experience on the other thread.

Yes, the auto tends to protect the input gear shaft, but the auto tends to suffer instead - per Ashcroft and LRAuto. Don't know if the spud of the ZF has been used else where behind manuals.

Both shafts get the tick when looked at by the more expert person. The Outcast is made for the long spline input gear which can be obtained for about $100 from Ashcroft per search by Vern.

If you're talking the remains of the Sheldon I would say no at first glance. Custom flange, yes as per Sitec approach I guess and weld - but then if getting a flange done get the sline built in.

Field serviceable, yes please. ! hour - over to you Vern.

Hate to say it, but if you need a fix sometime quick, then at this stage it is Outcast for about a grand. They may be doing a run in the next few weeks. Ancient put up an example which looks really good, price for $1,400 for one or $1,200 if a few interested. Not sure where this is at.

Thanks workingonit,

Is the long spline input gear the cross drilled one? I have this already.

Actually, i was thinking replicating the part that i just broke.
(not weld to the input gear as Sitec did.)

This would be easy for me to get made in Cairns.
1:ZF Spud shaft splines and shaft already heat treated etc. (and cheap)
2:Then a flange made in lathe (simple & cheap)
3: press ZF Spud into new flange
4: weld while in lathe to keep true
5: bolt the whole lot up like the original part.

Sheldons shaft lasted me 50,000km, seems too brittle. (untrained guess) and too small a radius on the transitions.
My thoughts were that the ZF spud should be up for the job.

Money is a factor for me, but i will not skimp if anyone thinks this will be an inferior method. If this costs me $500 and the tested Outcast is $1000 I'd probably go with Outcast. Thoughts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vern

..............
I still think he has done a great job, I just has one flaw that needs addressing.................

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Too true, he opened a whole new chapter. Gotta admire someone who can think like him, especially the gear linkage.

Good to see positive collaboration with sorting out one aspect of this conversion, crucial as it is.

cheers, DL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boof Ed

Thanks workingonit,

Is the long spline input gear the cross drilled one? I have this already.

Actually, i was thinking replicating the part that i just broke.
(not weld to the input gear as Sitec did.)

This would be easy for me to get made in Cairns.
1:ZF Spud shaft splines and shaft already heat treated etc. (and cheap)
2:Then a flange made in lathe (simple & cheap)
3: press ZF Spud into new flange
4: weld while in lathe to keep true
5: bolt the whole lot up like the original part.

Sheldons shaft lasted me 50,000km, seems too brittle. (untrained guess) and too small a radius on the transitions.
My thoughts were that the ZF spud should be up for the job.

Money is a factor for me, but i will not skimp if anyone thinks this will be an inferior method. If this costs me $500 and the tested Outcast is $1000 I'd probably go with Outcast. Thoughts?

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That style of construction is still on my viable list, but I think I'd do it with one of the Puma spud shafts (need to confirm lengths etc and cut/machine the large spline off) as it would give a larger area for weld and interference fit. I'd also only weld the end of the shaft into the front of the flange rather than fillet weld the shaft to the flange on the rear side, but that's purely based on seeing various bits of kit broken through/around welds over the years. Likely not an issue if its welded correctly by an expert, and there are no alignment issues.
I'd true the flange up after welding too.

I'm happy to be told otherwise, but I can't see an issue with its strength/durability.

Steve

Just posting this again.........

a weld is what connects a female spline thing to a C9 output shaft onto a LT 95 TC input shaft (no welding involved on the front of the LT95 TC housing to mate it to the C9 Lotza ,bolt on adaptor between the two, whole thing was superbly envisaged and executed in the day).

Don't discount welding as part of the solution to this shaft prob unless all people with the knowledge have moved onto property development or something.


'When I was putting the Ritters C9 / LT 95 TC late 70's conversion behind the Chev everything was apart to replace seals.

Should have taken photos I guess....... AFAIRC.... output from the C9 had been cut off and welded to some sort of female splined sleeve that mated with LT 95 input shaft, inside adaptor housing.

Remember thinking that it was a flawless big weld. Gets flogged, no probs.

Noel might still be working at Ritters and remember how it was done.'

DL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by workingonit

I think your first remark is too easy to say!! Considering last nights effort to get measurements. ...

I don't think you understand the dial indicator I have. To say 'mount the base of the dial indicator assembly and the probe on the back of the housing you are double checking that the housing is also flat and parrallel' implies to me that you think my dial indicator can revolve on its own base - it doesn't.

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Sorry I upset you, and in particular because of all the measurements and drawings you did.

I just couldn't understand what was such a problem but I was thinking of an magnetic dial indicator tool (Like the one below)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/02/791.jpg