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But the Sheldon shaft was even more simple :p
And to again quote bee utey '... A splined flange as shown earlier would be a definite improvement but keeping wear under control will be difficult...'
What is scary about bee utey's discussion was the possibility of breaking the end off the output shaft if you beefed up the Sheldon shaft...hmmm Outcast...gulp :o
But no broken shafts yet of their 5 or so, and case looks to be better made, precise CNC.
1 you do not pre load taper roller bearings Period !!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by workingonit
2 have you read Bee Utey's thread? NO
3 the output flange Nut is torqued up not because of the bearing all it is doing to the bearing is pinch the inner race, read bee uteys post again.
4 what torquing the nut up is doing is applying the friction etc to the dogs and cones.
look back its been postedQuote:
Originally Posted by workingonit
85county.
Not sure what to make of point 1. Maybe 'preload' is the wrong word? My understanding is that taper bearings (axles, lathes, whatever) require some loading to them via shims etc.
Point 2 I am reading bee uteys threads
Point three. I have said the torqued nut/flange is tightening on the inner race. Others told me it was preloading the bearing itself, advice I accepted but was not happy with.
Point 4 I have no knowledge on how tightening the bolt/flange to the inner race provides friction to the dogs and cones. Would you like to provide an expalanation?
I do not recall anyone saying where you can get the MSA manual, but am happy to be corrected, and in the spirit of community have some one link me in as if often the case as it is hard to keep track of everything. If I had recognised such advice for what it is I would have leapt at getting the MSA manual
The MXA has been mentioned and I have got that.
It is hard to keep track of everything, but its like a moth to a flame, I just can't stop:D.
I may have missed the msa manual bit, would be handy as I'm going to rebuild mine, 2nd gear synchro is a bit iffy.
Bollocks! So, you leave your wheel bearings loose.. with no preload then!? The boys at Regency wouldn't like that!Quote:
Originally Posted by 85 county
Disc brake bearings often run a little clearance when cold so they don't bind when hot rotors expand. My P76 workshop manual specifically stated this so Regency can't do you for correctly set wheel bearings.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sitec
Oil filled bearings may be better at tolerating preload than greased ones, I've seen plenty of greased ones fail that were done up with modest force.
Agreed, but 90% of tapers require a small amount of preload.
I get the impression that most here understand when talking preloading tapers. Just don't know why the tone of response from 85 county - I'm quite happy to listen to an explanation. There's plenty on the web and this is from SKF Determining preload force
'In a bearing arrangement comprising two single row angular contact ball bearings or two tapered roller bearings back-to-back or face-to-face, each bearing must accommodate the axial forces from the other. When the two bearings are the same, the radial load acts centrally between the bearings and if the bearing arrangement is adjusted to zero clearance, the load distribution where half of the rolling elements are under load will be automatically achieved. In other load cases, particularly where there is an external axial load, it may be necessary to preload the bearings to compensate for the play produced as a result of the elastic deformation of the bearing taking the axial load into account and to achieve a more favourable load distribution in the other bearing which is unloaded axially'.
Have to agree, that is the easiest way of achieving what you want to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
From memory Land Rover specified 0.002" of end float for the wheel bearings on the Series 3.
This was to allow for expansion of the bearing during normal operation at which time the bearing would be preloaded correctly.