I think klr like the smell of peoples money!
I run the 4bd1t truck clutch, with nearly 30psi boost and plenty of fuel, and whilst towing, it hasn't shown any signs of slipping
I.
I just assumed that the 6x6 4BD1T flywheel housing would have threaded bolt holes where the trans bellhousing attaches. Now I find on closer inspection that they do not...erm... So perhaps foolish question- Anyone know what the size and dimension of these nut & bolt combination is? I'm assuming it'll be metric course thread M10 or better.
I'm not keen on having this project (4BD1T / LT95 130 conversion) knocked back at engineering certification for something silly like this.
II.
Spoke with one of the fellows at KLR a few months ago. He made mention that the 4BD1T factory clutch will invariably slip under heavy load with power & torque increases after modification of turbine and fuelling setup. He wants some serious coin (ie, for a clutch kit) for his 'solution'. I'm assuming that this solution will have a part number....anyone willing to share the love?
When last I spoke with Brian (Bearman) - he said that factory clutch setup is plenty strong enough. I reckon that's on the money, but is it worth looking at this KLR setup?
What's the consensus here?
Anyone have a brand and source recommendation?
I think klr like the smell of peoples money!
I run the 4bd1t truck clutch, with nearly 30psi boost and plenty of fuel, and whilst towing, it hasn't shown any signs of slipping
I ran a turbo truck clutch for a while and experienced slippage after some decent towing etc . Now has the 1.1ton clamp force outback extreme clutch and that sucker eliminates all slip 😁😁. Pedal feel is pretty good though. The thrust bearing will get a work out so better use a steel carrier not the useless plastic one!
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Thanks Damien and Justin. I'll chase up that brand.
Any advice on the bellhousing bolts?
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/2102067-post51.html
The part number is in that post. Google search Xtreme outback clutch
Jc ☺
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
275mm or 300mm Justin? I run the 300, and IF I come into any slippage I will check the one you recommend
My Rangie project has the NPR engine/gearbox, with 275mm clutch plate - threaded bolt holes (sorry svengali). Interesting to hear of clutch slip with increased boost etc, when in factory spec if was in 4 to 8 ton class vehicles (as I understand it - happy to be corrected). Anyone driven an NPR truck with full load?
Just received a new ABS clutch and diaphragm today from Adelaide, kit KIZ28003. Even though I cannot find a web listing that it suits the 4bd1 it does all fit (the box itself lists 3.6 and 3.9 NPR diesels). Pity I did not come across the xtreme kit before hand. The ABS with freight was approx $330 - anyone can give a ball park on the xtreme kit cost?
Certainly sounds like I should skim the flywheel to ensure a first class installation? My NPR truck clutch plate resisted removal from the flywheel. My flywheel shows original machining marks where the rivets sit ie no moisture build up. The rest of the flywheel shows fibre patterning where the clutch sat before removal, and some fibre can be felt still adhering. I'm guessing if I have corrosion it is tenths of a mil if not even finer. Several of us machined a rover v8 flywheel last weekend on my mill (actually one milling and the rest watching). I let the guy who owned the flywheel do the set up and cutting, once I confirmed he had done this before. His flywheel required about 0.5 mm shave at least. My cutter is 5 points but only sweeps about 175mm, so I would not get the beautiful pattern a full face cutter would give - I assume the pattern I get from my cutter should be OK?
Any chance Isuzu used the same diameter fly wheel for both the 275mm and 300mm clutch plate and diaphram? My flywheel clutch face measure 340mm. There is approx 300mm of usable diameter between the markings where the diaphragm sits ie the diaphragm bolting arrangement only uses about 20mm each side.
As an aside (and I guess I'll post the same question in the series forum), I've also been playing around with a series 3 stage 1 Isuzu non-turbo cab ute. Yesterday I got the clutch plate to 'un-glue' itself from the flywheel without pulling the box back - lots of revving! Took it for a run around the property, with only handbrake working. Was surprised at how quickly (unnervingly!?) the vehicle wants to move off in first or in reverse, unless you slip the clutch to reduce the power supply. I was expecting in high range first to be 'a slow walk' and kick the engine to move a bit faster - not take off straight away at a brisk half sprint. This is my first experience with a 4bd1 running and in gear. The engine does not sound as if it is fast idling, but does sound like it will stall if I don't let it have its head. Is it possible someone has changed a ratio somewhere? The original LT95 4 speed I believe (integrated transfer case). Yet to try low range 1st.
Just to go against the flow, I have just today got my 130 back with a new clutch fitted, as the xtreme outback clutch was slipping after not much work. I am running up to 30psi and max fuel.
I also spoke to KLR but wasn't keen on their price, so found hopefully a better clutch with an even higher clamping force of 3300lbs or 1.5Ton for about $300 less.
Will have to check part numbers but it is from "direct clutch services"
Cheers,
Andrew.
I agree the extreme clutch is too expensive. 😮.
Will check out your source thanks☺
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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