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Thread: clutch? - normal vs heavy duty vs ex-military 110 vs swapping for transport van/truc

  1. #1
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    clutch? - normal vs heavy duty vs ex-military 110 vs swapping for transport van/truc

    i have an '86 110 county with isuzu, after market turbo and 4 speed gearbox.
    After many years of hearing my release bearing rattle when the clutch pedal was up, I believe my clutch has finally gone. Was on my way to my beach camp site and came to a halt on soft sand, when i tried to power out i got metallic sounds, clutchy smell and little power to wheels - had to get pulled off the track

    Two weeks before that, there was a marked vibration on acceleration which seemed fixed by changing the front diff oil which was overdue and about 10-15mm low. (Still getting a drop of ?clean gear oil on base of diff, not sure where its from, think i have drain screw pretty tight and oil level is fine)
    There is still a little bit of vibration but not related to acceleration, which I'm assuming is my tie rod ends - all of which, including pitman link need replacing

    My car still drives ok on the road, little bit shakey or something and odd little noises, not obviously a slipping clutch but acceleration not as good as it was, and I'm driving pretty cautiously as I'd like to get home everytime.

    I already have new tie rod ends and they're not a problem to fit
    but replacing the clutch is too much for me to do myself currently and fairly expensive
    So is the clutch likely to be the only significant issue?
    One mechanic quoted me for both a normal clutch replacement and a heavy duty version, but my parts guy hadn't heard of a heavy duty version...?

    My car, as far as i know, needs clutch and the tie rod ends fitted and its all happening as rego is due (inc pink slip).
    Makes me question if i should be doing all this or replacing the car
    I could do with a vehicle for transporting plants such as a transit van or light truck, which would help with business but wouldn't get me to my beach campsite and other interesting places, the alternative is a decent trailer and a landrover to pull it
    I know there's another ex-military auction on this weekend, I'm too far away to go look for myself but might be able to find a friend in sydney/brisbane who could view them. Are they basically the same as a county +/- back cabin with a good maintenance record and low kms - or do they have issues of their own, someone mentioned non standard parts, or particular benefits/downsides to what i already have?

    Apart from the clutch and tie rod ends my county should be fundamentally pretty sound with only 30,000 since the 4BD1 was rebuilt and garrett turbo reconditioned.
    Otherwise theres some rust in the firewall which my neighbour can cut out and weld, hopefully there's no nasty surprises under the air-con unit.
    And the inside door handles don't quite unlatch the doors, like they're too loose, and the door lock buttons don't work - i haven't found a way to fix this, thou have found a handle kit available...
    and i think it would be happier with a bigger air intake (air filter is on roof and snorkel is only 50mm diameter)

    any ideas, info etc would be much appreciated
    especially any local mechanics in need of plants
    (I'm in Ballina with a nursery)

    thanks,
    Lis

    Is the clutch the same for a 4BD1 and a 4BD1T?
    have just been reading 2 questions. 4BD1T clutch recommendation and bellhousing bolts.

  2. #2
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    Mate i would definitely fix what you have (I'm guessing the rebuild and turbo would have cost-a-motza). Depending on tune, your turbo was only ever going to stress that standard (...assumption) clutch out sooner or later. Spend the dollars and get an h/d aftermarket. look at that post you mentioned and the discussion is pretty clear. I used direct clutches in Albion QLD. He sent me the wrong throwout bearing though. In your case, you only need the bearing- not necessarily the carrier and spacer like I did.
    The rest of what you mention is maintenance and normal repair on the old rig.
    HTH cheers steu

  3. #3
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    No decision to be made - just replace the clutch.
    I've got the genuine isuzu turbo pressure plate in mine with Landy friction plate and its holding up well so far @ 50KKms. Others are very happy with the aftermarket HD ones. Just don't get a standard non turbo one as it won't last.
    If you go isuzu just be aware that the later truck engines used a 300mm diam plate and won't fit standard LR flywheel.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the reassurance
    Whilst I had known I'd have to do the clutch one day, I was in no way ready for it when it went.
    Yes the engine rebuild was costly both in $ and inconvenience so I was reluctant to spend more $, however I'd almost worked my way full circle from needing a van back to fixing the clutch as the fastest and cheapest way to have a reliable and capable vehicle.
    Glad I asked thou, as I hadn't realized I needed to inquire about heavy duty versions.

    Have found a range of different kits, brands and prices
    reading other threads, people talk in terms of clamping force - is that the main decider?
    but what of plain heavy duty clutch with organic plate vs heavy duty button clutch (~ceramic)?

    I do a few kms of soft sand track, where my last clutch died, each fortnight,
    it will be towing a loaded trailer a couple of hundred kms each week
    and unloaded some normal roads/hwy and the odd slippery steep back road
    Its not particularly well tuned to take advantage of the turbo, I was going to look at that after I improve its air intake

    Does having a heavier duty clutch stress out the rest of the driveline?

    Cheers, Lis

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    no, it doesnt but it can accelerate the wear on the throw out bearing, the clutch pivot, the throw out fork and the slave cylinder pushrod.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    no, it doesnt but it can accelerate the wear on the throw out bearing, the clutch pivot, the throw out fork and the slave cylinder pushrod.
    And your left knee!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadCo. View Post
    And your left knee!
    😕😕😕 looking again at autoboxes as we speak....

    Jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

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