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Thread: 4BD1 Clutch Options

  1. #1
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    4BD1 Clutch Options

    Has anyone used the KLR Clutch kit? At there advertised price and ease of fitment I am leaning towards one of these kits before fitting my turbo. I know there are cheaper heavy duty clutches but I'm not skilled enough and don't have the time to play around making a clutch kit.
    any feed back is greatly appreciated

  2. #2
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    Do a search on here, there are cheaper and better options available.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

  3. #3
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    I used the Exedy heavy duty kit.
    $570, but most brands were around the same dollars.
    I got mine off a ebay seller in Brisbane. He had other landy ones posted but listed one for me after a request for a 5 speed 4BD1

    GENUINE EXEDY **HEAVY DUTY** CLUTCH LAND ROVER 110 & COUNTY 3.9 DIESEL (84-94)
    ( 151617902211 )

    Exedy also make the OME clutch for Isuzu (so I was told by Isuzu spares)
    Pedal effort seems the same as original.
    Plenty of posts on here about them, I read enough to confuse myself when I went to get one

  4. #4
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    Smile

    Cheers. I had been searching been confused and now I think I will be going a exeedy 4bd1t 6x6 set up.
    Should i remove the motor or drop the gearbox to access the clutch? Any advise on clutch change for the 4bd1 lt95 set up will be greatly appreciated. I have a engine crane trolley jacks and a block and tackle. I have done clutches before but only on little rice burners

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discomat View Post
    Cheers. I had been searching been confused and now I think I will be going a exeedy 4bd1t 6x6 set up.
    Should i remove the motor or drop the gearbox to access the clutch? Any advise on clutch change for the 4bd1 lt95 set up will be greatly appreciated. I have a engine crane trolley jacks and a block and tackle. I have done clutches before but only on little rice burners
    If you have a two post hoist, remove the gearbox. If removing the gearbox then check you have the BYG2767 rear main seal. There are also other gearbox related things to do like steel oil pump gears blah blah.

    I'm running an xtreme outback clutch kit too.

  6. #6
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    Personally, pull the engine. Couple of hours and its out, easier to line it back up compared to laying under the car trying to line that lump of a gearbox back up. Do the rear main as Steve said. $120 odd for the seal and sleeve from isuzu

  7. #7
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    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    Personally, pull the engine. Couple of hours and its out, easier to line it back up compared to laying under the car trying to line that lump of a gearbox back up. Do the rear main as Steve said. $120 odd for the seal and sleeve from isuzu
    What he said!
    Quicker and easier to pull the engine in most cases for a clutch change. Also make sure a new throwout bearing comes with the clutch kit.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  8. #8
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    Sounds good.... sort of
    In that case I will delay the clutch and turbo for a little bit longer. And start collecting all the other bits and pieces i need for the motor (cooling system etc) as I may as well do every thing when the motor is out.
    Cheers

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    Personally, pull the engine. Couple of hours and its out, easier to line it back up compared to laying under the car trying to line that lump of a gearbox back up. Do the rear main as Steve said. $120 odd for the seal and sleeve from isuzu
    Just did mine.
    Much easier to pull the engine. Chance to tidy up a few other things in the engine bay and replace some hoses you don't notice normally.

  10. #10
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    xWhateverweareupto on pulling the engine.

    I am running a 6x6 clutch plate. The prices I have seen on the KLR option are crazy - and lets face it, they are likely just adding a mark up to someone else's clutch kit...

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