Gear change set for MSA5G LT230 configuration

No such thing as a 1.1 tcase, the 1.192 was in a county, its to close to the 1.222 to make any difference, yo need the 1.003 plain and simple.
1.192 you can remove the input gear however.

If you could remove the input shaft then yes you could remove the input gear easily.

I was going to to make a shaft, but then sheldon came up with the new 32 spline shaft, so am just going to go with this. I just can't see this breaking.
I also can't see what you have breaking, and if you di have dramas then you just need to unbolt the tcase, no real big deal.

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Originally Posted by Vern

No such thing as a 1.1 tcase, the 1.192 was in a county, its to close to the 1.222 to make any difference, yo need the 1.003 plain and simple.
1.192 you can remove the input gear however.

If you could remove the input shaft then yes you could remove the input gear easily.

I was going to to make a shaft, but then sheldon came up with the new 32 spline shaft, so am just going to go with this. I just can't see this breaking.
I also can't see what you have breaking, and if you di have dramas then you just need to unbolt the tcase, no real big deal.

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There is also the 1.2 Q-case. But don't fit one of them either as they are weak.

Q for quiet, beveled rather than square cut teeth(?) I believe.

Just putting the Ashcroft order in now.

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Originally Posted by workingonit

Q for quiet, beveled rather than square cut teeth(?) I believe.

Just putting the Ashcroft order in now.

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Yes Q is quiet, but they are both helical gearsets. The Q-cases just seem to have finer teeth.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

Yes Q is quiet, but they are both helical gearsets. The Q-cases just seem to have finer teeth.

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Don't seem to, do. This is the Q-case I ran in mine for about a week while I sorted the 1.003:1. The teeth are finer, but the gears are wider. I'm not sure whether the result would be weaker or not; people have broken them, but some people can break an anvil with a rubber mallet.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/09/115.jpg

Note that the low range gears retain the non-Q gear tooth profile and width.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/09/116.jpg

It's worth noting too that the Q-case housing is thicker, so it doesn't interchange with non-Q housings.

As for a useful contribution to the thread - yes, I would definitely go with the 1.003:1 case.

When saying 'square cut' I was not meaning straight spline, so agree helical, but rather wide crown for strength (but noise), tapered crown for quiet (but weaker crown).

Good to hear confirmation for 1.003.

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Originally Posted by Dervish

Don't seem to, do. This is the Q-case I ran in mine for about a week while I sorted the 1.003:1. The teeth are finer, but the gears are wider. I'm not sure whether the result would be weaker or not; people have broken them, but some people can break an anvil ...

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Yes i know they are. Poor choice of words. I have broken and dismantled one. I am not especially prone to breaking things. In fact that is the only driveline part i have ever broken on the 110.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

Yes i know they are. Poor choice of words. I have broken and dismantled one. I am not especially prone to breaking things. In fact that is the only driveline part i have ever broken on the 110.

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I didn't know you'd tried and broken one; I trust your mechanical aptitude enough to say they are therefore probably inappropriate for Isuzu use.

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Originally Posted by Dervish

I didn't know you'd tried and broken one; I trust your mechanical aptitude enough to say they are therefore probably inappropriate for Isuzu use.

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I posted pics on here at the time. Lost a few teeth from the intermediate and high range gears. I ran it for 3 years or so, including the CSR and gibb. Fortunately it broke close to home when pottering around the burbs. I was able to limp home in low range.